Does anyone else have a clutch that doesn't completly "disengage" when they pull the cluch handle in?  When I start my bike and I am in first, it pulls on me.  So, if I wouldn't would let it, starting in first with the clutch handle in would start me rolling.  It is hard to roll the bike when I have the handle in and I am in first too.  Once I have the bike warmed up and been riding for a little, this pretty much goes away.

I had the bike in for a "10 point" service, since I just bought it and wanted to have a dealer look it over and I told them about it.  They changed the clutch cable a little and the settings at the clutch handle, and said they fixed it, well they didn't.

When I check the end of the clutch cable (the metal lever that the clutch cable pulls up) it seems like the cable isn't over tight and pulling up on the cluch lever which I thought would have been the problem.

Any suggestions?

This really seems like a simple cable adjustment to me. Adjust the cable on the handlebar adjustment (pull boot back if you have one) and turn it right or left until the bike starts moving when the lever is about 1/2" out.

photojoe FSO wrote on 08/11/09 at 09:17:47:

Attacking the same problem from different ends of the spectrum, I like it.

I'm not saying the clutch cable doesn't need adjustment, as it probably does.  I'm just saying you might get a bit of a pull if you start it in gear no matter HOW the cable is adjusted.

Serowbot wrote on 08/11/09 at 11:15:58:

Yup 2, I missed that point.
Start in neutral, your clutch has dried out and developed stiction or whatever it's called in clutches.  Needs a fresh coatin' of oil.   Start in neutral wait for it to pump the oil around abit before jamming into gear and making like a bat out of hell with its tail on fire.

Ive had some time to chew on the whole notion of the 3 lengths of rods & the 2 lines. After thinking about the design some & how the actuator arm Not being lined up between those lines would affect the clutch, Ive come to this. Please, tell me what you think.

The actuator has a Paddle on it that drives the pin in. If the rod is too long, that paddle is pointed away from the rod somewhat & would drag across the end of the rod & would wind up requiring more effort to pull the clutch, which would tend to over load the actuator & we know they arent the stoutest things in the world now.

If its too short, again, the paddle wouldnt be working at an angle that is efficient.
I think the goal would be to have the paddle perpendicular to the shaft at or a little after the 1/2 way point of the rods travel. The free play is adjustable at the lever, the rods are to make the clutch lever as easy to pull as possible & to make the load as low as possible for the actuator, which means the shaft thru the case & its bushing & seal will last longer.

Duane wrote on 08/11/09 at 13:15:26:

Lem'me know....

There is a rod that gets pressed down into the middle of the clutch pack when the clutch lever is pulled. Suzuki offers 3 lengths of rods. There are 2 lines on the clutch cover that the clutch actuator is supposed to "aim into". If its aimed outside the lines one way, then a longer rod would get it lined up, if it is outside the lines the other way, then a shorter rod would be needed. Why does it matter how the actuator is aimed? I am thinking for the reasons I posted. Someone will show up & have a look at that & have a comment or 2, I hope. I hope I get agreement. If I dont, well,, then maybe Ill get clarification. ( Clarification: PC for Set Straight)