It may be more than you want to take on, if you need step by step instructions,.. but here goes...

1. loosen rear wheel
2. jack up rear wheel off the ground, (support it)
3. disconnect rear brake actuator rod
4. loosen wheel adjusters
5. remove axle bolt and pull axle shaft
6. remove drive belt
7. remove wheel
8. open brake drum
9. check to see if the shop really put on new brake shoes...
10. remove shoes and scuff them, and the drum with sandpaper
11. put everything back in reverse order
12. adjust belt tension, and align wheel
13. lower bike
14. tighten the crap out of the rear axle
15. adjust brake.



basically....

Others will tell me what I forgot.

As an alternative option, try doing a few hard stops in an empty parking lot and see if that helps brake them in...

The majority of your braking power comes from the front brake...  My bike has 20,000 miles and the rear brake shoes are original and still in good shape.  I'm on my 4th set of front pads....

Best of luck,
If you decide to tackle it and get stuck, feel free to ask us here.
ride safe

Serowbot wrote on 07/03/09 at 10:53:00:


That's a good how-to but I would not recommend hard braking to break in new shoes.  If there are any high spots on the shoes (as in, not perfectly bedded into the drum) then the high spots will overheat and glaze.  And a glazed shoe is more likely to squeal than one evenly worn by a slow break-in.  

Even so, I still got the squeals after a full pad removal, scuff and clean of both pads and rotor, then slow application of the brakes to re-seat them.  They did great until the scuff wore off.  I'm fairly convinced that the stock friction material, along with the general undersizing of the brakes makes them prone to squealing.  

I expect some EBC pads in the mail today, and will report back on how they do. Sorry I can't help with the rear shoes, but the principle should be the same.

How long ago was the brake job?  Phone in and ask how long their warranty is on service without stating your problem over the phone--act like a prospective customer.  Get the name and title of the person you speak with.  If the brake job was done recently, take your paperwork back, along with the bike, and speak with the person in charge of their service department.  Tell then that you are not satisfied with the job they did and you want the job inspected for the problems you stated at no charge to you.  Do not waste any time talking with a subordinate; see the shop manager.  Find out in advance if any state agency in your state regulates motorcycle repair shops, and as a last recourse file a complaint of bad brake repair with the state agency.   If it has been beyond the warranty period for the job, either do it yourself or take it to a different shop.

Look at your rear brake assembly.  See the arm that is pulled by the cable?  Push that arm forward with your fingers.  It should move just a fraction of an inch with finger pressure.  If it moves much at all, tighten the nut on the end of the cable--this should get rid of the sloppy feeling.  If you think it might be too tight, take a short ride, do not use the rear brake at all, stop using the front brake, and feel the rear for warmth.  If it is warm from dragging (or you've heard a dragging noise), loosen the nut one click, let it cool, and try again.  

Don't use the rear brakes much, anyway.  Your front brake has more power than your engine,* and I don't think there is any way to do a stoppie (up & over the handlebars) on any bike shaped and balanced like ours.  At most, use the rear brake a bit then slack off as you're coming to a stop.  Only use the brakes somewhat evenly on slippery surfaces.  Stopping causes the bike to dive forward, so that added weight gives the front tire more traction than the rear.  If the rear skids you're in big trouble and worse trouble if you release the skidding rear brake.  If the front skids you can relax the pressure, likely regain balance, and brake again.

What causes the rears to squeal?  The shoe rubbing against the backing plate?  That would be improper assembly.  Or the wrong new shoes?

*Is there any bike that goes from 0 to 60 mph is less time than it stops from 60 mph to 0 using just the front brake?  Few if any, I think.

oh yeah and not to mention that he must've not balanced the front wheel after putting the new tire on cause it wobbles around like mad aswell .

I agree with Justin, don't ever take it bake to that shop again.

well i performed the procedure tonight and it turned out well they did't even change them and there was so much brake dust in there you couldve scooped it out so i cleaned it all out till it was spotless and put the new shoes on and bam the squeal is gone and it is no longer spongy but don't do it without the proper stand it was fine taking the wheel off but putting it back on had to have 2 other guys hold the bike while i put the wheel back on i am pooped but the bike is better now all i have to do is take it to get the font wheel balanced correctly thanks guys !!!

Serowbot wrote on 07/03/09 at 10:53:00:


for real? because i was looking into buying new rear brake pads for my 2006 with 8500 miles on it, and was going to get them replaced when i get the new tires put on.

they seems solid to me, so do i not need to replace them?