Don't need to remove the carburetor to do any of the rejetting, but it sure makes things easier to see. Getting the carb back in is a minor hassle. The tank's gott'a be off to either do the spacer in place or to put the carb back (anyone have a way to get the carb back in with the tank on???).
If the main jet is changed in place, you'll probably find that a #2 Phillips driver bit (hex shank) in a socket (probably 1/4") works best for the two screws near the battery. Be very careful to hold the screwdriver or bit vertical...these are actually JIS screw heads, not Phillips, and they like to strip. Many have replaced the screws with socket head cap screws and use a ball-end hex key (AllenŽ wrench). The main jet has a brass washer that must not be dropped into the crevice by the starter motor...
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How long is the white spacer? 2.7mm or 2.5mm or???
I have stock intake & exhaust and have good mid-range results with either three or four 3mm steel washers (I've tried both three and four and don't notice a difference either in power or smoothness or in fuel consumption).
I like the 150 main jet. I have the idle adjustment screw set so the engine runs well at 0-25% throttle and hardly ever backfires. After that setting, I set the idle speed at 1200 rpm on a very warm engine.