or is there a way to do it ourselves.?

Yep...I think you are right.  When he was here, we talked about it.  I think he was going to file the holes larger on the pickup so that there was a little adjustment.

Toymaker wrote on 11/23/08 at 05:56:58:


All Ignition boxes I know of will have at least a simple timing curve built in.
I know Kawasaki boxes I've dealt with have a start up setting, and reads RPM's and curves the timing as needed, but they also have a Throttle Position sensor to add a 3D timing curve.

The Savage I bet has a range or retard and advance thats RPM related. By how much or at that RPM I have no clue.

But yeah you could slot the holes in the pickup mounts and move it a little to get some retard or advance timing but no more than say 3*

I'm guilty as charged for slotting the mounting holes on the ignition sender unit. It was't real hard to do unless you count dropping a thrust washer which ended up sticking between the flywheel and stator and making a strange whiring noise, lucky I didn't blow the engine. After removing the left side cover all I did was take a dremel and oval the mounting holes on the sender. I have a degree wheel which shows that I got almost 2 degrees advance on the module. Performance wize it seems to give me another 200-250 more useable rpm but that is just a (seat of the pants) observation. You can't get any more advance cause the heads of the bolts that mount the module end up getting in the way of moving it. If you want to get more advance it would be possible to make a plate out of a piece of metal but that will cause some other problems. Ideally you would need two plates, one that mounts on the side cover and one that mounts the module. Drill the plates to give the advance you want and mount everything using recessed screws to keep the heads out of the way. The little mounting pillars on the side cover would need to be ground down to make up for the extra thickness of the two plates so the module would line up at the right spot on the flywheel. Done right you could set the timing anywhere you please. Now the trick would be to make the timing adjustable from the outside of the engine, still working on that
If there was a way to open up the cdi and reprogram it that would be cool also. There used to be the circuit diagram of the cdi floating around but I haven't seen it for quite some time. Bet you could tweek it but I wouldn't know how.

Toymaker wrote on 11/27/08 at 03:52:35:



Hey guys.......Happy Turkey !  

Toymaker wrote on 11/28/08 at 12:59:15:


Just had a plate of leftovers microwaved; so good the second time around...then a nice sized piece of pumkin pie with whipped cream all over and a nice cup of coffee to wash it down.  

Yesterday was good; three kids with husbands/wives + 5 grandchildren running around...lot's of noise, everyone talking at once, the whole family all together for the first time in quite a while, and the cherry on top being my youngest daughter (US Marine baby girl) being 3 months pregnant with her first baby ... # 6 grandchap for us... makes for a good Thanksgiving in my book.

Can I revive an old thread and ask questions?  Has anyone else tried this, and how is it working out?  I was thinking about doing this but was concerned about keeping the gap correct between the pickup sensor and the flywheel, since the sensor does not mount to the case but rather the cover.  Just got finished with several other mods and am planning to put it on the dyno later this week.  Thought it would be best to set the timing first.  It feels to me like the timing could use a little more advance, or at least a more aggressive timing advance curve.  I think it would accelerate quicker if the timing were made to advance sooner in the rpms.  I put a Dynatec 2000 on a sportster that I built and chose an aggressive advance.  It made a huge difference in the throttle response, don't know if it made more horsepower, but it was a lot snappier when I hammered down.

I was looking for a way to get the timing to advance quicker, like being advanced to 30°btdc by about 1600-1800 rpms, and then having a full advance of 35° btdc.