markrider wrote on 08/26/08 at 05:33:21:
Mark, This helps a lot. I have the very same setup as you with the exception of the K&N. I have the stock filter. I too have the DJ144 Jet installed but I started with the 8 that came with the supertrapp and bought another 6 pack. I am up to 10 now and the bike runs great! I have not had a chance to pull the tank to check the plug and wanted to make sure I wasnt getting too lean. It sounds like I can probably add a few more discs if I choose to.My bike is probably going to run a little leaner here in Florida at sea level but more restriction on the air filter probably more than makes up for that. Do you still get a couple of pops when you completely close the throttle from 65mph or so? Do you have the stock pilot jet? How many turns out are you on the idle mixture screw?
         I too have rejetted many bikes and have had great luck with dyno-jet products. I have never had to change from the suggested settings but on my previous bikes (a sportster and a road king) it was easier to pull the plugs and check them. Thanks for the info!  Gazoo www.lubedealer.com/1lube

Thanks, Lancer. I won't forget the pilot jet. The backfire may be bothersome to some, but I think it's a real hoot, and I'll miss it.

Bugaboo, Good to hear from you! I wondered what happened with your bike. If your pipe is yellowing you are running lean. you need to remove 2 discs from your muffler and see how it runs. I think the engine sound is normal. I dont know what you rode before but I had a Road king and the engine ran a lot slower (lower rpm) than the Savage.  Gazoo www.lubedealer.com/1lube

Bugaboo wrote on 09/20/08 at 21:42:52:



With the new muffler you are getting more sound from the exhaust and engine, and all that extra mechanical sound makes it SEEM like it is working harder.
from your previous post the engine is running fairly well but a little on the hot side.   You said that there are no hard core backfires so the pilot circuit is pretty good.  You could check the pilot air adjusting screw again just to make sure it is set perfectly.  It is easy to do; just ride the bike for 5-10 min to get it good and warm; then stop and with the engine at idle turn the screw R & L  1/4 turn each way and see if the rpm increases any.  If it does, go to the higher rpm setting, then turn another 1/4 turn in the same direction and see if it increases rpm any more.  And so on.   When you get to where the rpm is maxed out (you can turn the screw 1/8th or 1/16th turn to fine tune) then the pilot is set to the best place.  If at this point the engine rpm is higher than you would like then use the idle adjustment screw on the other side of the carb to lower the rpm to the desired speed ... about 1100 rpm.
Now to the midrange... needle adjustment.  I suspect that you may be running a bit lean in this range.  In order to adjust this, however, requires the carb to be removed and disassembled.  So, do you want to go there or not ?
Of course, as mentioned already, you can remove a couple of discs on the S/T and that will help to richen the mix slightly across the board.

Got to go for now.

Bugaboo, It is very easy to remove or add discs. If you will send me a PM with your e-mail address I will send you 2 pdf files of instructions that come with the muffler and you can save them on your computer or print them out. Gazoo www.lubedealer.com/1lube

I just spent 15 minutes talking to Bruce at Supertrapp. He was a wealth of information, and didn't rush the call at all. With every change I mentioned, he talked about the importance of the carb being tuned right .
He sent me to Summit Racing for parts, saying that ordering directly from Trapp would cost more. I opted for a disk 6 pack, open end cap and the screws w/high temp lube. Total was $55.60 w/shipping.

Thanks for the tip Justin.
For reference, the disk screws sold by Trapp can be found here: http://www.cmsnl.com/products/stainless-bolts-std-6_0304047206/ (Euro store just for reference) and the high temp lube is included with the pack.