Picked up a '99 mid april and there's been a hum/rubbing noise during deceleration. After looking through topics on here I figured it was the belt, so I used some dry silicon lube... now it's louder and sounds like the wheel on wheel of fortune. It's definately coming from the drive pulley/belt. Pushing it around or with the clutch in when driving=very noticeable. After I let the clutch out=not as noticeable. Any Ideas? Tighten belt, new belt, alignment....anything?

Just tried it and the 90 was there....also another tid bit, pushing the bike around in neutral the noise is barely noticeable going backwards, much louder pushing forwards if that means anything

check the drive pulley nut for torque.

I think Verslagen is telling you tio make sure the front pulley, under the side cover up by your left ankle, is torqued properly. Sorry if you already got that, wasnt trying to be a snot, Im just so good at it, I dont HAVE to try..

All this talk about belt noise and stuff had me to the "since I have time, I'll go and check mine" thing.  Good thing I did.  I have had a squeak for a little while.  Did the belt dressing thing and it helped.  This morning, I check the belt for  wear at the drive pulley.  What did I see????  A big deal in the inboard side of the drive pulley...how it got there is a mystery to me.  I also checked the pulley itself.  LOOSE!...working around like a 5$ tart in a sailor's bar.  So I took the pulley off, straightened the dent and reassembled the bewlt, pulley and all. Retourqued the nut and re-bent the locking washer.  Now the pulley is tight..no movement and the belt is silent as the grave.  WOOHOO!

t

Thanks a lot everybody, gonna get into the bike this afternoon

That gauge is only good for tossing at cagers that are crowding you.

Use the 90° twist method, grab the lower belt mid way and if you can twist it 90° then it's adjusted correctly.

I don't know about any conflict in recommended torque specs for that pulley and shaft combo, and I still haven't looked in my books, but my 30+ years personal experience as a mechanic on all sorts of equipment, including gearboxes, would make me instinctively want to torque that to 80-100 pounds. I've noticed in the Clymer's book some other torque specs seem to be really light... perhaps that is a statement on the quality of metal commonly used on imported machinery.

I've also been to the Loc-Tite company seminar's on proper use of their thread locking compounds, and personally I wouldn't put the red stud lock on anything that I wanted to ever be able to take apart again. If the hole and stud (or whatever) are clean when that stuff is used, it is like welding the parts together!