2 phillips head s on the upper edge back in the flared section. 2 tabs fit in slots on the bottom. Loosen the clamp & pull the 2 bolts in the rear. Dont lose the metal sleeves from the bushings. Rotate the muffler to access the phillips heads. It may be necessary to temove the footpeg mount & allow the header to move away from the frame a bit. It may even be easier to just pull the header & get easy access & good visual on just how it all works. Remember, replacing the headr means torquing bolts. Even just messing with the header will likely result in needing to retorque. Others seem to have an issue with the beam style torque wrench, I dont, tho the ease of use of the "click" type in awkward positions is a considferation, I went with the beam. A torque wrench for this bike needs to have the ability to work & be accurate in low ranges, so look around. I am happy enough with Sears 3/8 beam style. Was cheap. Maybe till you find the torque wrench of your dreams you can find one that will "Do". You could just snug the things up & not worry about it. When Greg suggested mine might be loose, thats what I did,But, Ive been mechanicking for a long time & have a feel for when threads are about to let go( sometimes). Its not perfect, but I will do that sometimes. I DO use a torque wrench & recommend it, But if you dont forget the threads are in aluminum & dont think thats what is holding the whole bike together, you should be okay. Remember, it's better to need to retighten them than to need to repair them. Use a 1/4 inch ratchet & the effort required to strip them will be higher.

No problem. Just went out to the shed where the old muffler lives & looked at it for a sec.

Trippah........Good luck with the swap.  Been there done that on the snapped bolt.....happened to to me removing a head on a 327 small block.  Im going to swap this stock exhaust with a Jardine.  Some one on the site said to go with a 152.5 main (if at sea level).  I live in north Mississippi and probably no more than a few hundred feet above that if that much.  Good luck and  RIDE SAFE!

well, easy out didn't hold up, so I'm off to visit the nearest dealer Friday. Ya know, they do snap in half on occasion.(says a friend of mine who is a mechanic (auto)).. May be time to do the cam mod if the bike is going to be torn up anyway.  Think they can drill out the darn thing, or am I loking at a new cylender head??
Oh well, will find out soon enough.  And how do they expect anyone to get at those two philips head screws on the heat shield unless you take off the whole exhaust system.??Actually, mine only had one left..maybe po or original manufacturing crew thought two were excessive.

Justine_o_guy You are so right, the frame is in the way by just a bit of a straight shotdown the bolt.  At least with my hand drill.  Am interested in options..apparantly my riding deason is taking a break.  Obviously, my neighbor and I were out of our dept..haven't tried this since my MGB in '98, when I had better luck.   Well. may get some info tomorrow or this weekend.  I haven't taken the head off yet..no time.  Thanks for your thoughts..

Apparantly, the next step is to take it to shop that has a plasma cutter.  Well, at 61, I'm learning lots, which is half the fun..the other half is doing it yourself correctly.
Hope i get to that half someday.  So. Has anyone done a tech on head removal??  Also, since I've inadverdently hijacked this threat, I'll start a new one...

How to use a Rigid Screw Extractor