SuzukiSavage.com - Started out innocent enough...

Fido_the_Cat

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Started out innocent enough...
06/19/07 at 21:16:34

Just planned on doing some checking the valves for tightness and general maintenance. Straightened the back wheel and got rid of the belt noise. then did the valves only to realize that I cranked the wrong way and they rapped like all get out. Next day went back in and (I think) fixed it. I see people are saying that heat and humidity will cause the valves to rattle. I have a vibration now I did not have before. Is it the valves. It's not a rapping like they are too loose. Can they be too tight and slapping the head? She runs fine no flat spots in the acceleration but, my decomp is gone. It use to work like a brake when I let off the throttle, now it's gone. I understand it's purpose is to make for easier starting but I thought all this time that it also was a engine brake. On decel it would let out the "Pop Pop Pop". The Pop is gone. Was it an exhaust leak? Cause I did tighten the bracket for the heat shield.
If that is not enough, for some reason my marker lights front and rear do not work, except for one, the left front. I have turn signals, but not marker lights. I checked several times to fine the connection that may be bad or loose but that doesn't explain why three and not all.
Thanks for letting me get that out. Hopefully if I think about it some more it will make sense. Although some common sense from outside myself would really help.
Thanks gang.

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verslagen1

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Re: Started out innocent enough...
Reply #1 - 06/19/07 at 21:27:05

Did anyone tell you to put down the wrench and step away from the savage before?

I think your valves are too tight. Redo. Now. Go to the tech section, read and memorize. Repeat 10 times, the wheels and the crank go the same way. (at least it worked for me) Grin

Check the bulbs. The rear turn sig's don't work as running. Only the rear brake light has a running light.

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Paladin.

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Re: Started out innocent enough...
Reply #2 - 06/19/07 at 23:06:05

Covering what I have experience with....Fido_the_Cat wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:

....for some reason my marker lights front and rear do not work, except for one, the left front. I have turn signals, but not marker lights. ....

If stock, your rear marker lights do not work 'cause they aren't. Unless you have added marker lights to the rear they don't exist. As for the one that is out up front -- most likely a burnt out bulb OR a poor connection. The connection on the bulb is soft (lead or a lead alloy?) and with constant vibration tends to flatten out over time. In either case, a <$2 replacement bulb should fix.

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smokin_blue

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Re: Started out innocent enough...
Reply #3 - 06/20/07 at 03:28:29

If you cranked the engine the wrong way during the valve process and the performance changed that much I would be very suspicious your cam chain jumped and you altered your valve timing. I don't know the exact procedure but the look at the manual for re-installing a cam chain or cam its self and find out where the timing marks are so you can align the timing of the cams with the crank.

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justin_o_guy

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Re: Started out innocent enough...
Reply #4 - 06/20/07 at 05:44:29

After spending a day or two digging around in the cam chain & tensioner area I would say that turning the engine backwards will not result in knocking cam timing out. The force required to get the chain to move over a tooth in the gear would be very violent/ Just turning the engine by hand cant do it, IMO. Unless, the spring has popped out of the tensioner & the chain is sloppy loose.Then, problems already existed.Since the whole "Set the engine on TDC compression" thing is REALLY done to accomplish one thing & 1 thing only, & that is, to relieve the rockers of any pressure, so the rocker/valve clearance can be set I would venture to bet that I could get my little wrench & Back the engine to TDC exhaust & set the intake valve clearance & then rotate the engine either direction to part way thru the power stroke or intake stroke & set the exhaust valve & the clearances would be just as right as if done strictly By the Book. Why would I say this? Because I KNow how an engine works. I set the timing on a Ford 460 from piston # 6, since IT was at TDC & I just set the distributor into the thing & adjusted accordingly. It worked just dandy, I didnt have to set timing from the #1 cylinder, #6 did just fine.

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justin_o_guy

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Re: Started out innocent enough...
Reply #5 - 06/20/07 at 05:54:22

OOOps, since I dont really know where the cam overlaps, I better do it this way. I can set the clearance on the intake valve where the cam is not pushing on the rocker at all, where the Heel is pointing toward the rocker, not the lobe. That will be happening for a lot of the tine, since the heel away from the lobecovers as many degrees as the lobe. SO, all that is absolutely necessary is to find a place in the engines cycle where the lobes are pointed away from the rockers. TDC compression IS one of them, so they use that, since its easy to find. I am just saying, there ARE other places in the cycle of the engine where valve clearsnces Could be set, if one so chose.
I also dont really see how, given a proper functioning tensioner, rotating the engine backwards in TDC would keep the cam timing from being close enough to TDC when the crank IS at TDC & that it would affect the valve setting.
I do see that rotating the engine backwards puts undue strain on the pawl of the tensioner, IF the plug was still in the head. Otherwise, I dont see which way we turn the engine to really be critical. Anyone want to Splain WHY its such a big deal?

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tuxedo

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Re: Started out innocent enough...
Reply #6 - 06/20/07 at 06:50:47

Fido_the_Cat wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:

Just planned on doing some checking the valves for tightness and general maintenance. Straightened the back wheel and got rid of the belt noise.
...
I have a vibration now I did not have before.

Ok, how long did you run with a crooked back wheel? If it's oddly worn, and you straightened it, that could make the vibration. Just a thought.

As for the popping, if you have looked at your cam chain or , for some reason, removed your exhaust for valve inspection, then you fixed an exhaust leak.

Engine breaking isn't working too well? Maybe you turned your idle up a lot before to keep the exhaust leak from sounding so bad under engine breaking?

Your marker lights...probably knocked the ground off the relay, check it for continuity. Only three working is odd, but I've heard of stranger things. I know you've checked all the connections, but all I can say is, that front left connector is dirty or the bulb's shot.

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Fido_the_Cat

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Re: Started out innocent enough...
Reply #7 - 06/22/07 at 20:41:20

Thanks for your replies... I don't get around here as much as I'd like to.... I really need to get more sleep.
Seems I didn't explain the situation properly in the first post. So the valve question is; can they be so tight that they are causing the engine to vibrate? When completed I was able to put a gauge in and feel a "tugg" but the gauge moved fine. Are you saying that If I check them now, I will not get a feeler gauge under the rocker arm?
Okay, the rear lights are not running lights--- gooph me. Front left bulb is good. Is the harness the one that is taken apart to remove the tank or the one that is a vertical mount on the left side of the frame also under the tank. I'll check the color code then the plug harness for current.
Smokin: I can't believe that the chain jumped and it still runs strong. Just seems to have more vibration than before.
Justin: I was thinking of Varoom's tech notes on adjusting valves. If you come up on the wrong side of the lobe they will rapp. Maybe I just did something wrong. I know I did them right this time-- perhaps just too tight though.
Tuxedo: The wheel is misaligned. You know, the hash marks on the rear frame. I set it so each side is at the same hash mark. But something is still rubbing. More inspection is needed.
Again, my question is; does the Decomp create a type of braking when you let off the throttle? I've had this since I got the bike, over a year. Replaced the muffler but welded that on. Had the "Decomp" in the exhaust until recently. My question is, "Is it suppose to work that way, because now it's gone. Do I need to re-visit the decomp setting again or troubleshoot the solenoid?
I realize that I know enough to get in trouble and if I had the time to research and troubleshoot the problems I would probably create more trouble than fix. I just worry about creating a situation that is causing damage. ie "ran great until it broke." Thanks again for your help.

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justin_o_guy

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Re: Started out innocent enough...
Reply #8 - 06/22/07 at 21:30:08

I am so guilty of messing with more than one thing at a time. I would be better off I think if I would just do one thing, then test run the bike. That way, I would know what was done & what difference there was in the bike. When I do 3 things before I run it, then when it doesnt run right, I dont know which of the things I did caused the thing to not run right or act right.

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