hey all!
remember
this thread?
FYI: I'm at 4000 feet above sea level.
well, I finally had some time and put the VM 38 back on there and got it to start.
with a 260 main and the clip on the needle 1 down from the top, the top end pulls like a SOB and scares me (need a fork brace
) .
but the leak is still kinda there. I am 100% sure it is not the float needle valve. Why: When I pour gas into the fuel intake spigot and push up on the float arm, no fuel leaks at all. When I let go of the float arm, all the fuel comes out. This does not mean that the float is adjusted correctly, though.
I think the pilot and idle circuits are
WAY off. I'm running a #30 pilot (bleed type), and the air mix screw (it's on the air intake side of the carb) is somewhere around 2.5 turns. The idle is nearly all the way in.
What do I mean by leak? Okay, so I got the carb back on, and decided I needed to tune the pilot and idle circuit. So I pushed the idel up (i.e. turned the screw in), and started playing with the air mix screw. when I had it way out (I think it was out) fuel started pouring, and I do not mean a trickle) out of one of the overflow tubes. well, I killed the bike, and the flood stopped after a bit. It does not seem to make a difference if the petc0ck is in PRIme or RUN (both work properly with stock carb). Eventually got it to idle more or less okay.
So if the float valve works, why the heck is it overflowing? Float height adjust? It did it a little bit this morning to witht he same settings as last night's test run (as below).
took it out for a test run. Top end is scary. cruising at 15-20 mph, it is kinda choppy, surging, even after it was warmed up. it hesitates jsut a little at, say, 1/10 throttle. these usually indicate a lean condition, correct? well, this AM it started right up, and ran fine for a bit. then it started to idle poorly and wanted to die all the time, and I was getting puffs of black smoke on restart. This usually indicates rich, correct? by the time i got to work, it was idling pretty well.
Also, it backfires ALL the time, but I think that is partially because of the cherry bomb I've got on there. Stock BS40 carb did it too, though not as much. Some of the backfiring is prolly due to the nature of the cherry bomb, some to the nature of the savage, some to poor jettinhg, and some to to exhaust leaks at the header/muffler joint (probably).
Any useful input is appreciated.
Thanks,
V
edit:
PS as from the CLD Pt1, the purpose of the independent floats is evidently to keep the feul level constant while accelerating, decelerating, leaning, going uphill, downhill... at least that's what I got out of the (Sudco or Mikuni) manual. they said the not independent floats are "ideal for small carb. bore applications" I may edit this a bit later.