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HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step) (Read 1469 times)
LPHRN
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #30 - 05/21/25 at 17:20:31
 
Sorry, I meant to say foot pounds.  Still, it is much more than that.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #31 - 05/21/25 at 18:21:46
 
So all the 6mm bolts in the head cover.  Those should be 12lb ft if memory serves correctly.  I don't have the manual in front of me.

I made a template out of cardboard to remember exactly where each one goes.  I would not put a cheater bar or breaker bar on those.  Soak with some penetrating oil overnight.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #32 - 05/21/25 at 22:07:13
 
the 9mm bolts are torqued to 21-24 lbft
the 8mm bolts are torqued to 17-20 lbft

if you are not using new copper washers, you need to anneal them.

apply oil to the bolt and nut threads before you torque them.

use a criss cross pattern.
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LPHRN
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #33 - 05/22/25 at 06:11:02
 
Got it.  I was just worried about what seemed like very tight 9mm cylinder head bolts.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #34 - 05/22/25 at 09:13:28
 
Y’all got me confused.  Are you talking about the bolts securing the head cover (as I showed above)?  Or are you talking about the 4 nuts on the long 9mm cylinder head studs?
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #35 - 05/22/25 at 15:07:07
 
LPHRN wrote on 05/21/25 at 16:08:28:
The nuts are very tight, far more than the 24 inch pounds they were supposed to be torqued to.  I can put a breaker bar on them and get them loose, but before I do I would like to know if anyone else has seen this.  

The 8mm and 9mm bolts are meant to be oiled before torqueing, lubricated torqueing is tighter than dry torqueing, hence why they are stiffer to remove as they'll dry out with time.
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Re: HOWTO: Head Plug Cap / Seal (step-by-step)
Reply #36 - Today at 18:47:10
 
I put off the right rear bolt repair as long as I could.  

I followed Dirt Bike Mike's instructions pretty much to the "T", including buying the faucet facing tool.  Everything has gone pretty well, with one exception:

For me, the right rear cylinder head bolt was the long one.,  The "rabbit hole" stud was low enough that I could raise the head high enough to clear it.  Not so with the RR stud.  I ended up supporting the head with 2 pieces of 2X4, which exposed the center part of the stud.

Using a pair of vice grips and some crocus cloth, I clamped down on the stud as hard as I could.  I moved it very carefully, and it did break loose with no slippage.  I could only swing it about 1/8 of a turn, so it took a long time to get it finger loose, and then the head came right off.

Now, the problem.  Those of you who are familiar with this stud know it has a slight bulge between the threads and the necked-down section of the stud, but only on one end.  It appears to be about .6 mm larger than the threaded portion, and on mine it as on the bottom end which threads into the case.

When it was time to reassemble, it was extremely tight.  I used the double nut technique, and all I could think about was that I might be tearing up the case threads.  I went to the fiche, and saw that the RR stud is supposed to be 203 mm.  Mine was about 222.

So, I went to the Suzuki shop and ordered the 09108-09004 stud.  When it came in it was 222 mm, identical to the one I already had.

Sigh.

I know a 222 mm stud came out of that hole, but the amount of effort it takes to get it back in gives me pause.

Anyone have any suggestions?  Please advise, thank you.
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