First OOPs,, shafted myself, When I put the side cover back on I allowed the clutch cable connector to drop down. No way to swing it back up. I already had the pipe on & oil in it, so I mashed it shorter with vise grips & then straightened (at) it,, It looks fine on a walk by.
Next, I dont know what the book say7s, but I recommend tightening the header at the head before doin more than finger tight on the rear support.
Did you folks know that if a little anti-sieze is used on the ID of the rubber flangs on the head, the carb slips in pretty easily? Same with the rubber tube toward the air cleaner.

Also, IF ya stick the tank back on before the battery cover goes on, ya need a screwdriver tip from a magnetic screwdriver & a crescent  to tighten it back. Yea, you KNOW How i know..

LANCER or anyone who knoews..
NOW, the Question... Ir says to run it at a 2,000 RPM idle for 15-20 minutes to allow the cam to break in. I ran it for maybe 8 minutes & it was getting "I can Smell it" hot, so I shut it off. Then, after it cooled, I ran it about 4 more minutes. Is this gonna get it or does it need a continuous run at 2,000? Why does it have to be an idle & not going down the road?

Also, I stuck a 155 main in it. Seems to not bakkfire as much, but I cant really tell, holding it at such a high idle.

You should be able to smell something if you are not moving.  The bike can't cool itself.  Either run some fans on it, or take it out at 2am on a long road.  My guess.....

nice tips too

NO kidding? Well,, I been goin at this all wrong. But, it did seem the backfiring was affected when I went to the 150, before I even messed with the exhaust. But then I DID jack with the pilot screw, & I dont remember so well, BUT I think I did it at the same time, so grr.
Owell,, if it cracks off a bit, thats cool, I like that sound, I just dont want to be scorching pistons,