Max says that a different tube would require the tire/wheel assembly to be rebalanced. A patch on a tire/tube usually doesn't, but the relationship between the rim, tire and tube must be kept as it was the last time the tire was balanced. You must mark the tire, usually at the valve stem, make sure you do not invert the tube on reassembly (flip it over) and put all the index marks in alignment. FWIW, the yellow (usually) circle if indexed to the valve stem is the correct way to install the tire. The Maxxis Wide WW that I just installed barely needed 1/4 ounce on the front tire/wheel assembly when I mounted it. I didn't see the circle under the blue shipping protection coating on the rear one and had to use alot more weight there. A purist would have deflated the tire and shifted it to the correct spot. On a tubless unit I would have done, with the tube in you have to go past where you want to end up and then come back to it. As my tire work machine doesn't have an antirotation device in it. Aligning the circle is a difficult exercise after the fact and I just added the lead to make it balanced.  Max

Not sure about the sticky of the MAXXIS WWW. I did work hard onthe first tank of gas weaving about as much as I thought I could explain to an LEO (our County mounted officers are busy troopers this week 'scootin' and writing folks up) in my lane and sometime both to scrub off the tire mold release stuff, the tread was pretty shiny when new. I still would like to run another couple tanks of gas through before I see if I can drag the new floorboards. Get the winter kinks out and relax more. Also it is chilly so I'm tensed up some from that. Max

I bought a HANDY Brand balancer stand at the Seattle International Cycleshow years ago. Since them I've seen advertised the axle shaft with cones and bearings that can sit on notches cut in the end of upright 2x4's or even chair seats if they are the same height. Weights were the biggest hassle, finally got some from one of the mail order catalog places, that may be where the least expensive balancer is. It is not a quick and accurate as a spin balancer, but they start at about $1500 last time I checked.  A spin balancer will do both static = weight all directions from the center and dynamic = force inner and outer side. I just split the weight needed as the rims are pretty narrow.  I'd like to find a source for the split weights that go on the spokes rather than the stick on flat ones. Even read an article the other day and they are moving away from lead weights for cars and trucks because the get knocked off and break down when run over putting lead dust in the air. Given the density of traffic in LA I can see how if they sampled the air they would find almost all chemicals and metals in some amount. Max

Wow Barry, If someone had just asked me what i Thot of that idea & how it would work I would have said it would Unballance a tire. Some things I am able to get a mental picture of "How it works" & that one just drew squiggly lines all over my mental blackboard.I guess I dont have to worry how it will work for me, since the 2 bikes we have are running tubes.Tho, shipping the wheel off for sealing & running tubeless would sure be nice, I have other things I want worse than tires I can plug. Gotta have a Piston on the shelf next..OHH, how did you ever come to try that B-B trick? Who did it first? Is he now called B-B King? ( sorry, I inly slept an hour & 1/2 & unfunny things LOOK funny)

On a similar note, a fluid engine (crank) balancer works by the same principle...think Fluidamper...