For good value you can't beat Sears Craftsman, not their companion line. I like a 3/8" dr handheld impact driver as is is plenty big for the fastener sizes we deal with on bikes.  When it comes to screwdrivers and the bits for the impact driver, I suggest the tool trucks, Snap-on, MAC, Matco, Cornwell. etc.  the extra it costs there I believe is worth it. Max

Max_Morley wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:


I agree that some hand tools are worth spending a bit extra on to get a good value of quality. IMHO, Impact drivers are not one of those tools. The 'bits' themselves,
and screwdrivers ARE worth searching for good ones. And while Craftsman makes many great tools, their hand screwdrivers have always sucked, and still do. I've bought better fake Snap-on screwdrivers at K-Mart.

Generally, as for "pro" quality tools off of the over-priced wagons that troll the mechanic shops to weasle the poor guys out of their paycheck before they can get home with it... No doubt, they're some of the best tools available, but their prices can be just plain stupid hign. I've seen guys pay three to ten times as much for a tool because it said "Snap-on" and it was no better a tool than the Proto, Husky or Craftsman that I've used "professionally." Some for 30+ years and going strong. Oh sure, I've got a few Snap-on tools in my box. Mostly taken on trade or bought used, but I think I bought two tools off of the trucks before I caught on they were scam artists.

BTW, I was shopping for tools several places this week, and noticed that some Craftsman tools are now limited to a 3 year guarantee. Not the lower 'Sears' brand, but the real 'Craftsman!' Another American institution going down the drain.

T140V wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:


I agree with you completly about the Craftsman wrenchs "spreading" as I've had them, and seen them do it consistantly. Just as with Craftsman screwdrivers, their wrenchs are junk. OTOH, I've got several of their old fine tooth ratchets with the thumb/finger spinner, and center release button, and I wouldn't trade them for any other ratchet. (Unfortunatly they are the ones Sears got sued over, by stealing someone's idea, and they no longer make or sell them!) There is nothing wrong with several of the Craftsman tools, and as you said, some are a good value. My point is; that there are lots of good tools to be had without overpaying for the fancy slick looking chrome job.

In fact, most of my favorite SAE hand tools are a hodge podge of MasterCraft, Thorsen, Proto, Husky, PennCraft etc... Good tools bought cheap one by one at pawn shops. One reason they are favorites, is that I can recognize them at a distance; because they all have a distictive look.

I have 'sets' of tools that stay nice and organized in their little trays and drawer racks... But when I go to work on something I habitually pick up my 'old favorites.' This method works good for me with screwdrivers too. I know from looking at a screw's shape which old #1 or #2 will fit well; because we all know that they're not created equal  Let's see... hmm... do I pick up the 12" long Excelite #1 with the clear/yellow handle, or the 6" blk/yellow handled Stanley? It depends on what the screw looks like.

When I usually do break into my 'sets' is when having to work on metric stuff; because I didn't begin collecting metric tools seriously until 8-10 years ago. The shop I was in at the time started doing a lot of remanufacturing of German equipment, which meant of course, we had to adjust to working with more metric. A lot of my old SAE tools have been around 30-40 years.

Your comment about "spinning" a tool to judge it's quality reminds me of an old story:

A guy goes to apply for a job as a mechanic... The boss picks up a ball peen hammer and tosses it into the air. It flips around three times and then he grabs it mid-air.

Then he asks the applicant "You think you can you do that?" The prospective employee says "Sure, I can do that!"

The boss tells him "I don't need you then. Look out in the shop, I've got two guys standing around out there doing that right now!"

Few monts ago I picked up an electrical impact driver working on 12volt. Cheap, at 25$ at the food supermarket. They have every week another tool or other non-food stuff on offer.
Back to subject.
Working on the Savage and its engine it proved to be very usefull for LOOSENING nuts and blolts.
For tightening I use high quality tools such as Stahlwille, Belzer, Proxxon, Bahco and Snap-On.
Never use an impact driver for tightening.

skatnbnc wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:



While you're shopping, keep an eye out for an allen head socket set. It might cure your breaking wrenches problem, but I've broken the socket type too. But they sure are nice to use until you break them!  

Okay I am back from the pawn shop with an impact tool and several interchanging pieces $24, and a set of allen wrenches on a ring thrown in for free.

Related question - is it okay for me to use my regular hammer, or should i stick with the rubber mallet?

Dead blow works fine, but I prefer a brass hammer as it doesn't peen over the edges of the attack driver (name on the box mine came in years ago). Max