there is no attachment mechanism.  23 is what I've been calling the "float arm."  The pins on the floats that point toward the center push up on the float arm, but are not "yoked," but ideally, they both push on the float arm the same amount, at the same time (I imagine).  To try and be more specific, they separately push on the arms that extend towards teh bottom left corner of your computer screen in the diagram I posted.  The center tab on the float arm pushes on the needle valve, or course...  Hope i made that clear.

23 is a solid piece.  But if one float is binding and not pushing on 23, I don't think the other float will push on 23 enough to close the needle valve.

one thing I've noticed about our VM & Amal (from another post by you, Rob) carbs is that they both have starter, or cold start, plungers, not chokes (enrichment circcuits).  As far as I can tell, they operate very differently than chokes.  Get the bike started, lift the plunger after a bit.   If you put that plunger down again, kills the bike.  On a stock carb, engaging the choke effectively ups the idle (and may make it run like garbage if you leave it out).

vroom1776 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:

That theory would almost make the 2 float design just about stupid though...

Seems like either one should be sufficient to close the needle.

Could it have anything to do with leaning the bike over?

Savage_Rob wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:


Why do you like the carb?

Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:

My Amal?  Mainly, I like the simplicity and the responsiveness.  I like having the movement of the needle being directly related to movement of the throttle instead of being tempered by a rubber membrane.  It's also kinda cool that I need simply remove a threaded brass plug and have easy access to the main jet (though a special tool makes changing it simpler).

Savage_Rob wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:


There you go confusing me again...

I knew you had the Amal, but I thought that you were running the 38 MM Mikuni too.