Does anyone use wally world oil in their scoot? I have a long last decided to go to the synthetic stuff and am trying wallys brand of full synthetic.  It is made by a big company---I can't remember who but I was wondering if anyone els has tried it yet????   Also any problem running full synthetic in a new bike???/ I put it in the crank case of a 1978 Honda CR250R and after about a half hour of moto cross it began to smoke more than it should. Come to find out synthetic does not lube old seals very well and it let oil go right past the crank seals. So I have been a little learry of full synthetic since then.   john

My boss is a long time mechanic. Worked several years at a Ford dealership etc, etc. He is a big time research nut on the internet comparing specs and all that stuff. He swears that wally oil is as good as any. He runs wally 15-40 in all his vehicles from new Dodge pick-up and Land Rover down to his 84 Chevy pick-up. I've run it in my old stuff with no problem. I put full synthetic in my '06 Savage at the 500 mile oil change. Have about 1100 now and doing good. I think as long as you are past that initial break-in point, go for it. Price really isn't a factor with only 2 qts (more or less) needed

Serowbot wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:
Thanks for the advice, but I am a little past the break in period already.   john

Serowbot wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:


I agree with this one....I'd wait until about 2K to use synthetic in the new engine....  

Part of the reason that oil gets so dirty and the first oil change comes quickly is the internal wear in the engine during break-in.  And I for one don't think the engine is broken in at 600.

The idea of "break-in" involves certain desirable effects from friction.  That being gears that mesh and rings that seat.  Parts that "wear in" to one another and run more smoothly together.

This "wisdom" could possibly be outdated with more modern oils, but part of the concept of synthetic oil is less friction and therefore you could reduce the desirable amounts of "wearing in".

I'd take a milliliter of patience and do it next oil change.

Or get a magnetic oil filter

The "better" the oil, the "worse" it is for "break-in" provided that an engine is designed and machined to have a "break-in" period.  The Savage IS designed to have a break-in period.  Greg is spot-on with the break-in advice for this type of engine.  Rings and gears do need to wear together, but this isn't just a syn vs. non-syn oil question.

Without going into a LONG discertation on the "why's" and "wherefore's", I'll give this advice for the Savage.  Use petrol, for the first two or three oil changes, any "diesel" grade oil will suffice, and then switch promptly to a "good" synthetic.  Amsoil 10-40 is the best, and the best for the $, followed  by Mobil 1 20-50 v-twin.  I'd use either of these in any riding condition imaginable.  At this time I cannot recommend any other oil in good conscience.  But, I'm somewhat of a fanatic when it comes to oil, and I'll tell you all now, my standards are VERY high.  If anyone is interested, I can explain much more fully on another dedicated thread, but don't want to bore anyone, or tick anyone off.  This has been a topic of hot debate multiple times across more forums and other venues than just this one.

I too am a strong believer in syn oil and running higher than the minimum required (R+M)/2 but it can be sort of like

Reelthing wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:02:


Be better if it was a monkey instead of a horse, IMO....