Mine are OEM & I am considering making lines across the face so the width of the contact patch is not affected. Just a few grooves, the area of which I expect to be about 30% of total. Grooves not so deep as to destroy the integrity of the brakeing material. Maybe a chevron shape or angled grooves  to channel the dust from between the brake shoe & the drum. If that translates in a 30% greater required pressure to lock the brake it just might become manageable about there.

For one, I'd be curious to hear how Justin's experiment with the rear brake pads goes. As I have also experienced more than expected rear brake lock-up under semi hard braking conditions in the few hundred miles since getting my Savage. I'm no rookie to drum or disk brakes, and agree that the Savages rear goes from medium drag to sliding with almost no difference in pedal pressure. But I think I may be able to explain why it happens, at least in my riding style… Which, BTW, includes heavy and predominant use of the front brake.

In my estimation, the biggest factor is the strong compression braking from the big single, and the fact that the compression braking comes in “surges” from the slow turning and long stroke engine. Most multi-cylinder or even single cylinder two-stroke engines have a much smoother engine braking action than a big 4-cycle single. Evidence of this comes from the numerous times I’ve locked the rear up and slid anywhere from a few feet up to 20-30 feet. And I've come to notice that it most usually happens when the engine braking is strong, and often when the RPMs are dropping down to where you can almost feel each pulse of braking from the engine. Which brings up another subject: Once you have locked a rear tire up ONCE to the point of sliding it pretty hard, you have developed a slight ‘flat spot’ on the tire; which will be the place in rotation where the tire will have a tendency to lock and slide during future hard stops. Don’t think that the “flat spot” syndrome only applies to soft compound racing tires, as I have experienced it with street tires with both cars and cycles.

I haven't noticed that the rear locking condition is a function of continuous hard braking and heating, in fact, just the opposite. As the rear brake gets heated to the point of beginning to fade, the decreased sensitivity actually makes the rear less likely to lock up. Hence my guess that Justin’s seemingly unconventional approach may actually reap good results up to the point that the brakes heat and start to fade, then you may wish you had that extra bit of brake power back.

All in all, I think that Justin’s idea may be a good answer for some riders. However, for myself, I’ve already found what I think is causing me to lock the rear up occasionally, and my solution will probably just be awareness of the idiosyncrasy, and a slight compensation in riding style to accommodate for it. YMMV

I don't have to use brakes that agressively with this bike under normal use. The reason being the tremendous compression breaking I get with this engine. You could probably survive OK with only the rear brake if there were no 4-wheelers out there.

Beware of the 4-wheeled sheet metal covered things out there.

Be especially aware of the sport utility tanks (SUT). They care about nothing, and will gladly bury your ass into the pavement while they are talking on their cell phones.