SuzukiSavage.com - Carb Screws... gah!

Veritas Ex Member	Re: Carb Screws... gah! Reply #45 - 10/02/06 at 10:43:54 I rode it for about 20 minutes. Yes, it was fully warmed up. The screw is 2 1/2 turns out.
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verslagen1

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Re: Carb Screws... gah!
Reply #46 - 10/23/06 at 23:16:37

I urge caution for you all as I think the problem with the screws is corrosion. When ever dissimilar metals are in contact there is a potential for galvanic corrosion. I think the carb body is aluminum. And the screws are of course mild steel. They may or may not have been locktited at the factory, but as my new-2-me '96 Grin

was as difficult to get the screws off a couple of weeks ago as the rest of you. My guess is it wasn't the issue. And you will have move trouble with the ss screws, as these 2 materials stick together. Wink

The recommendation was to use anti-galling grease when installing these screws. But the vendor who sold me the screws said motor oil would do.

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Savage_Rob Serious Thumper Alliance Member Offline Mechanically Inclined Amateur Posts: 6972 Texas (Dallas area) Gender:	Re: Carb Screws... gah! Reply #47 - 10/24/06 at 06:08:45 I'm quite sure bimetallic/galvanic corrosion is part of the problem and that's another reason for using stainless screws as replacements. Corrosion is far slower, almost to the point of being nonexistent.
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Re: Carb Screws... gah!
Reply #48 - 10/24/06 at 10:17:55

Sometimes taking the shortcut, is the long way 'round.
I recommend pulling the battery box and removing the carb from the bike.
Get that puppy on a bench or in a vise where you can really attack it!
When it's on the bike, it has a little bit of give, away from the screwdriver or vise-grips, that will defeat the twisting bite of the tool. If you get the carb solidly braced, off the bike, you'll have a better chance.

The key for me is mental. I will NOT allow the carb or tool to shift.., only the screw.
Grrrrrrrr!

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Re: Carb Screws... gah!
Reply #49 - 10/24/06 at 15:03:41

verslagen1 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:10:

I urge caution for you all as I think the problem with the screws is corrosion.

I disagree. The main problem is:

1. the screws are made of very soft metal. Substandard, you might say.

2. the factory puts them in really tight.

I did my carb when the bike was fairly new and half the bolts needed some assistance to come out. Using antiseize on bolts is always a good idea. I typically just oil them up with my oilgun.

Corrosion is a problem for bikes ridden in the rain or stored outside.

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Savage_Rob

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Re: Carb Screws... gah!
Reply #50 - 10/25/06 at 06:33:34

Dynobob wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:10:

I disagree. The main problem is:

1. the screws are made of very soft metal. Substandard, you might say.

2. the factory puts them in really tight.

I did my carb when the bike was fairly new and half the bolts needed some assistance to come out. Using antiseize on bolts is always a good idea. I typically just oil them up with my oilgun.

Corrosion is a problem for bikes ridden in the rain or stored outside.

I got my bike already six years old and bimetallic corrosion appeared to be a part of why the screws were locked. That sort of corrosion can happen even in very good storage conditions. Your information tells me mine likely started out tight and just got worse. I assume I was lucky though. I used some liquid wrench on them and was then able to use a stubby screwdriver and tap it with a hammer several times to help free them and they came out. If I were doing it again, I'd remove the carb first and use an impact driver to free them. No matter how you get them out, replacing them with stainless allens is a smart move.

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Re: Carb Screws... gah!
Reply #51 - 10/28/06 at 19:18:14

Dynobob wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:10:

I disagree. The main problem is:

1. the screws are made of very soft metal. Substandard, you might say.

2. the factory puts them in really tight.

I did my carb when the bike was fairly new and half the bolts needed some assistance to come out. Using antiseize on bolts is always a good idea. I typically just oil them up with my oilgun.

Corrosion is a problem for bikes ridden in the rain or stored outside.

...soft screws...really tight... Everyone knows this means stripped threads.

And galvanic or bimetalic corrosion occurs regardless of the environmental conditions. Just ask the electric company why your lights dim every time you start up the washer. There's a copper/steel/aluminum connector in your fuse box. I guess they needed a reason to look at your fuse box every few years.

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