I just changed my oil about a month ago but I'm feeling what seems to be clutch slippage at high revs a bit before it grabs and goes.  The bike's mileage is low enough (< 8k miles) that I find real clutch wear issues to be unlikely and I've been using Maxxum 4 synthetic in her.  I only noticed it after I put the Amal carb on and only when I really twist the throttle.  I'm theorizing the CV carb smooths out the power ramp enough for me not to catch this.  I can hear/feel the engine rev higher shortly before she begins to pull significantly.  Anyway, I've heard a lot of folks tout Mobil 1, so I thought I'd give it a shot.  Thoughts?

Rob,
Been running 20W50 synthetic in mine for awhile.  Seemed to help with the clutch too. Just my .02

Rob,

I ran Mobil 1 15-50 in my Savage without any problems from the first oil change. I'm doing the same in my Concours which is a different beast, but also without any problems.

I've been using the Maxxum 4 bike-specific full synthetic 15w50.  I just picked up some regular Mobil 1 15w50 at Wal-Mart and planned to change it out this weekend.  If it still slips with this, I'll use standard dino-juice and see how she feels.  If that still slips, I'll crack her open and check out the clutch.  If it doesn't slip, I'll experiment with other bike-specific synthetics or blends.  I'll let y'all know.

Balderdash wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:09:

one of our wal marts has it  the other doesnt...

Savage_Rob, I can't help but think switching to a very lubricious synthetic Mobil 1 would only worsen your mild clutch slip problem. I do believe however that switching oil brands of the same viscosity, or thicker sometimes improves clutch performance. I prefer your idea of testing dino oil to alieviate clutch slip.
Another thing to consider is the enhanced engine mods you made are now stressing  your clutch springs. I also believe that stock Savage springs are the weak link in our clutch problems. I miked a set of plates from a badly slipping Savage clutch pack and found them well within Suzuki tolerance, in fact they were thicker than the Barnett replacement ones. I changed the plates because I had them on my bench, but I am convinced that changing the springs (also within specs) and shimming them was all that was required.
Anyways, experiment with different oil and see if that solves your clutch concern. You may get a couple of more years out of your clutch, but I think you know that you have exposed your clutch (springs) as a future concern.

i used mobil 1 10w-40 initially.  after two oil changes switched to 20w-50 Castrol ActEVO.  bike shifts much better and doesn't seem to be generating as much engine heat.  

I am running in texas summer, though; you may have a different experience if you are in a cooler climate.

So far as changing to Mobil 1, I thought I'd give it a shot since I was already on a motorcycle-specific pure synthetic.  If I were experiencing slippage with dino juice, I wouldn't even consider it.  If it doesn't make a big difference (and at this point I'm hopeful but doubtful), I'll replace the springs.  In fact, I'm almost inclined to replace them anyway since they're not expensive.  So far as mods go, I'd agree that some would make slippage more noticeable.  Specifically the Amal carb not being a CV delivers nearly instant response as opposed to the sloped increase with the stock BS40.

And TC...

Yes, dinosaur juice would be non-synthetic.  You can go back if you want to, though it'll probably take 1 or 2 changes to fully flush all of the old.  In the hotter climes, I'm pretty much sold on synthetic as long as I don't encounter any intractable leaks.  I know some HD guys who hate synthetic because it finds and exploits any leak points.  I have not had any trouble with that though... other than the notorious plug leak (now fixed) and a bolt that needed torquing.