592.3 miles on my new '06. Close enough to 600. So I gather up tools, filter, oil etc. No shop manual yet as Suzuki has not seen fit to print them for the '06! Here we go...
Drain the oil - no big deal other than my normal oil catch pan will not fit under the bike. No problem, have a smaller one. After about 300 turns the plug finally comes out.
And now to the filter - 3 allen head screws out and a little pry - oil pukes all over the exhaust pipe and shield (and it have been sitting since I parked it last night).
New filter in, cover back on and 2 quarts of oil exactly, start the engine for a minute, let the oil settle back down and check the "eye" gauge - it is about in the middle - so much for 2.5 quarts with filter change - added another 4 oz and will keep an eye on it.
Pull the seat. No problem. Set it on the luggage rack on the boot of my MG. Disconnect the spedo cable - the O ring is nicely stuck to the end of the cable. Pull the hoses on the fuel valve and drain a little gas out of the hose so as not to spill it later. Wrestle with the tank a little and it comes loose without any major destruction. Set the tank on top of my Hobart 180 MIG welder (a little tight for space in the garage
Off with the valve covers - this looks like it will be fun. Out with the plug over the crank shaft and spark plug. Spark plug looks clean. Turn the crank a couple of times to get the rockers on the back of the cam. My trusty feeler gauges will navigate to the intake valves. Exhaust valves - no way. Did a little research on the site - found the custom tools at bikebandit - $30 - no wonder the name bandit. Considered a dial indicator- that would only give me the reading for the tightest valve of each pair. I know what I have to do but I refuse to cut up my 30+ year old Craftsman feeler gauges.
Off to the autoparts store for a cheap ChiCom feeler gauge set. Clip off about 1/2" from the .005" feeler, clamp in in an old Exacto knife holder and presto - a thumper checker! All valves passed the .005" feeler - good enough for me. Button up the covers, apply some anti-sieze to the spark plug and back it goes. Put back the crank plug. Check various hoses, cables, nuts and bolts for tightness (except the muffler bolt which cannot be gotten to with out removing the exhaust pipe shield (which in turn requires removing the muffler I think)). If the muffler falls of I will probably get some audible clue so to heck with the muffler bolt.
Put the somewhat cheezy chrome trim pieces back on the cylinder head. Apply some dielectric silicon grease to the gas tank rubber bumpers or whatever they are called. The tank slides back on slicker that whale (censored). Carefully watch the O ring fall from the end of the spedo cable (and end up under the starter) as I try and get it connected back. Pull the starter and retrieve the O ring.
I am about to connect the fuel hose when I spy the rubber gasket from the left cheezy chrome trim piece sitting in the socket set box. Back with the tank - at least it slides off easily now. Put the gasket back and tighten the chrome in place. Back on with the tank, make up the hoses and bolt the tank in place. Back on with the seat.
Time to check the belt tension. Loose! Well now, the axle bolt is 19mm. The nut is no metric socket I have! However, a 15/16" fit perfectly? Loosen the axle and adjuster lock nuts. 4 flats on both adjuster screws and the tension gauge is happy. Torque the axle with the 15/16" socket, tighten the lock nuts on the adjusters and I am ready for a test drive.
Pack up the toolkit and get it back into its box - no small feat. Into the house to put on long pants, boots, jacket and helmet. Do a quick mental review on the way out - $&@t - left the belt gauge in place - set it aside - it will have to go in the tool kit later.
So off I go. Seems to run fine. Fill up the gas - 57.9 mpg for the first 607.3 miles. Not too bad.
Ken
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