The first thing I would do is trace the oil back to the source. If you lost one quart within 10 min, then you have a major leak. It sounds like a seal has blown especially since the oil made it down onto the tire indicating the leak is from the bottom portion of your engine. I can't imagine your head gasket causing all this oil loss. The head gasket seals compression gasses, not oil. Start your engine and look listen and feel for escaping compression at the entire head gasket area. Clean the area and spray some soapy water on the area and this may help in diagnosing the leak. Like I said I doubt this is your problem, but you can start by eliminating this idea. Next, check your air filter and air box for oil saturation. Your crankcase ventilation may be diverting excessive gasses and oil. Check these three things and check back with your findings. I love a mystery.

Trase where is the oil comming from- what part of the case. If it is really an oil leak it is either a crack in the case either one of the seals or gaskets poped out.
I am thinking about the statement- the bike was running rough. Even with no oil in the case the engine will still run good if You don't have other issues.
Is it possible that You have a carb. problem and You are overfilling the case with gas?
When the oil+gas  mix in the case is cold the bike runs OK, but when it heats up- the fumes choke and kill the engine.
In the same moment the case is overfilled with this "magic" mix and You are splashing it  thru the breather.

bump  

Creator_11 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:


I have a 1987 also.  In order to trace an oil leak, first clean up the engine really well.  Buy some engine degreaser, spray all oily areas, get it really clean of oil, dirt, grease, etc.

A clean surface will reveal oil leaks easily by evidence of a wet spot.

Next, get a bright light and shine it all over the engine area.  Notate any damp areas with oil.  If no oily areas appear, start up the bike.  While engine is running, run that bright light over all parts with a careful eye.

If it is leaking as much as you say, you should be able to find your leak and in relatively short order.

One thing that comes immediately to mind is if the infamous leaking plug over the right front head stud over the right head cooling tunnel has final come completely loose and popped out (or into the camshaft chamber), you will have oil coming out of the cooling tunnel area.

Normally, the head leak problem will be more of a nuisance, you'll notice increased oil consumption and oil sprayed on the battery box exterior and on the muffler shield below.

With the head as damp as you say it is, my guess is unless something has caused the case to fracture or one of your shaft seals (output driveshaft to which belt pulley is mounted seal, shift lever shaft seal, transmission neutral wire grommet total failure) or oil filter cover O-ring has failed, it is most likely the aforementioned cooling tunnel plug has popped completely out of its mount.

http://www.bikebandit.com is one source that sells on-line parts for the Savage.  However, their part numbers are not the dealer numbers, their pricing AFAIK matches that of dealer and they seem faithful.  You can get a better idea of what you are dealing with through their detailed parts diagrams.

Regarding your rough running, that could be anything from a bad plug, CDI box starting to fail, carburetor problems, etc.  Fact your bike was running extra hot could also have a burnt exhaust valve.  Basically some methodic troubleshooting is in order.

Perhaps it is too premature to say it is the CDI box, but if it is, don't mix '80s vintage CDI and magnetic alternator rotor with '90s+ vintage, they are timed and magnetised differently.  If you buy a later model year CDI, then you must use the later model year rotor.

Good luck, George (HPT)  

The engine is right down to the piston rod now.

The piston is in good shape, it certinaly has a buildup of carbon on it, and the cylinder looks clean and very smooth. My spark plug was black with burn oil, and my exaust was too. I'm looking at the rings on the piston and they look to be in good shape, but I know I'm going to replace them anyways, along with a new head gasket.

My valves are just coated with carbon, and I plan on sending  them in to a local guy, along with the head to get cleaned up and polished.

But I am happy the piston isn't shot to nuts, but I'm a little baffled since the rings don't look as bad as I was thinking.