Well, hopefully you haven't damaged anything that would cost you a new carburetor.   Those puppies ain't cheep!!!

well, I took the actual idle mix adjust screw plug out after work, yes the real one this time!  yup, me=moron
anyways....
took it out, and it can unscrew as much as I feel like, doesnt make much of a difference past 2.5 turns out (I screwed it in all the way first, as a point of begining) and then it idles nice and smooth and there is no backfiring.  I also was now able to reduce the idle speed as well, to almost half what it was, is there any bad things with this or is it more of the "as long as it stays idling and running its cool" type of thing?  it sounds much nicer now.  also did the seat lift, with probably almost an inch of lift, and placed a couple sections of vinyl tubing underneath the old rubber blocks (3/4" OD, 1/2"ID)  and it works nicely, very hard to get the rear mounts to line up though, had to push VERY hard to get the holes to line up, but I did.  too cold to ride at that point and was dark anyways (my permit has a daylight restriction, and I'm gonna respect it)  so I couldnt tell you if the idle mix screw mod helped or not, but thursday or friday I might have a better idea, tommorrow its supposed to snow again so.....
one more question, after searching and reading about the white spacer mod I obviously want to do that and put a 152 main jet in there too, dont know if I will do a different muffler yet but maybe someday.  How hard is it to pull off the carb and diasemble it?  Now granted nobody on here will likely be confident in my mechanics skills after drilling the wrong friggen side of the carb..... but I figure if I only have wrenches and am not actually drilling or cutting I shouldnt have a big problem....  plus that little lesson taught me to be VERY carefull

no no it idled horribly slow and hesitant and missed fires and just ran badly all the way in, worse than stock, then 2.5 turns out it seemed to find a happy place

dichotomous wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:


Do NOT adjust  the idle RPM too slow. Keep it as per Suzuki's recommendation 1000 - 1100 RPM. Remember the oil supply and when the engine is stopped it does not rotate backwards.

Greetz
Kropatchek

how exactly do you rotate it?  the clamp that holds it to the engine?  just loosen that and the intake tube clamp and spin?  could I spin it enough to not need to take off the tank to do the white spacer mod?
oh, and just checking on the size of washers to fill in the white spacer, #4 right?

dichotomous wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:


You'll have to yank the tank to do the white spacer mod.  The "lid" of the carburetor will hit the frame if you try to rotate it.  That is why you need to take the top off the carb before rotating.

I just filed my white spacer down to 1/2 thickness.  Next order I placed from BikeBandit, I ordered a few extra spacers in the event I need to experiment with varying thicknesses.  You will have to figure out a way to evenly round off a #4 washer to get it to fit down into the slide as they are too big in diameter.  That's why I just filed my spacer down instead.

I didn't have to loosen my throttle cable, there was enough play to rotate it enough to remove the bowl.  I rotated mine toward the right side of the bike.

dichotomous wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:03:


If you haven't already rejetted, you'll have to pull the bowl to do the main jet.  If you've already done that, then disregard that part.