ive looked everywhere but i cant find  a post that answers my question. i have a squeal in my motor. if im coasting in neutral out of gear i dont hear the noise. it just happens when i apply throttle. when i shut the throttle down it stops. the noise never increases in volume or speed, its just a constant irratating queal rattle that can be heard for a block. anyone have a clue as its driving me nuts. its not the speedo and not the drive belt.....thanksl

I too have this intermittent squeal -- only when applying throttle -- and believe its the belt, however it could be something else. I noticed yesterday, during a light shower that the squeal had come back after disappearing for several weeks. I believe that it squeaks only when applying throttle because the belt is "active" or has force applied to it during throttle, placing more tension on the belt than when you are just coasting or, slowing down or whatever. It is D-A-M-N hard to figure out exactly where its coming from - I swear it moves to the other side of the bike everytime I try to listen for it -- drives me nuts! There are posts on how to fix the belt squeak though - just search - I just havent got around to fixing it yet (too busy riding !!)

I know what you mean by coasting in neutral by the way. (No offense intended the above poster)


--Mark

torque wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:08:


Exactly.  A wet belt can squeal.  More so if the belt guard is missing like on mine.  However the biggest reason for belt squeal is too much tension.

Try to adjust the belt on the "loose end" of the gauge, or if you don't have the gauge, adjust it to where you can apply a full 90 degree twist to the belt in the middle.  And don't worry...a looser belt won't slip.

Note...because the swingarm and the front and rear drive sprockets do not travel through the same arc, the belt gets a little tighter as the shocks are compressed.  Do your belt adjustment with the rear wheel on the ground.  That way it won't be too tight when you sit on it.

clueless wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:08:


I have to disagree.  There's two problems with that.  

Point 1 - If you jack the bike up and adjust the tension it will be too tight when you set it back down.  You need to leave the weight on the rear shocks to adjust the tension (unless you incorporate an extra amount of looseness)

As I mentioned above, the 2 "pivot points" for the belt involve the radius of travel for the swingarm and the front pulley.  The swingarm travel does not follow the same arc as the belt, and it gets tighter as the wheel goes up.  Adjust the belt with the wheel on the ground, is my advice.

<note: you will notice that the more performance types of chain driven dirt bikes do not use any chain tensioners, but have HUGE amounts of rear wheel travel.  Why?  Because the front sprocket and swingarm pivots are almost exactly on the same radius>

Point 2 - Why not use the swingarm marks?  What else will you use?  What is wrong with them?  Unless someone can convince me that they are faulty or incorrect, I'd suggest that they be used just as Suzuki recommends.  You can not just align the rear wheel by visually eyeballing the pulley and belt.  It is mounted on a bearing with slop and it sits against rubber bushings on the hub.  Curious?  Reach down there and see if you can wiggle the pulley in and out.  It is not fixed to the wheel hub and therefore provides no reference to wheel alignment.  I suggest that the marks be used.

I like to jack the wheel up for cleaning and waxing though  8)