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Spark plug door method (Read 1611 times)
gazab44
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Spark plug door method
08/14/05 at 03:52:43
 
First of all remove the tank as you normally would when you change a plug.

Remove the right crome cover bolt.

Loosen the left nut and bolt, this enables the cover to be swung open like a "door".

Then you can either replace the right bolt with a length of threaded bar, just long enough to hook the cover onto, using the original hole, or just rely on the the tightness of the left nut and bolt to keep the cover in place.
Now you'll never need to remve the tank again when changing a plug  Smiley







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« Last Edit: 12/08/12 at 12:41:07 by Oldfeller »  

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Savage_Greg
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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #1 - 10/11/07 at 05:05:51
 
I finally got around to this modification a couple months ago, but when I actually tried to use it to check my plug, I had a bit of difficulty raising the head cover cap enough to clear the top of the stud.  Maybe my stud was too long, but it seemed that I had to loosen the front bolt too much.

So, I made an additional change to the head cover cap, and for me it works better.  Using a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel, I cut a slot on the backside of the cap to swing away from the stud.

It wasn't difficult to do since the cap is just plated aluminium anyway...

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« Last Edit: 07/12/12 at 12:11:37 by Oldfeller »  


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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #2 - 10/17/07 at 08:08:31
 
youzguyz wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:10:
Scratches head..  ???

Greg,
It looks like you put a stud in there to replace the bolt, then put an acorn nut and washer on the stud.  How are they going to get through the slot?  Doesn't look like the slot is big enough.  Optical dillusion?
Or is there enough room (without pulling the tank) to get a wrench on that nut?
I must be missing something.

I scratches head all the time Tongue

In either Gazab44's method or mine, you still have to remove the nut because of the recess that they sit in, but instead of having to lift the cover up and over the stud, it just swings out now.

The acorn nut also sits a little higher so that a box end goes on it under the tank.  You gotta stick your fingers in there for access, but it's easier than removing the tank and seat.

Takes 15 minutes and a beer to add this extra slot.  I might even drink another beer and slot the front one before I'm done...Grin
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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #3 - 10/17/07 at 09:14:05
 
Savage_Greg wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:10:
In either Gazab44's method or mine, you still have to remove the nut because of the recess that they sit in, but instead of having to lift the cover up and over the stud, it just swings out now.


I don't think Gazab44 put a nut back on the top of his.  The stud just sits there, and you lift the cover over the top.

Quote:
The acorn nut also sits a little higher so that a box end goes on it under the tank.  You gotta stick your fingers in there for access, but it's easier than removing the tank and seat.

If you say so..  I still don't know how you can get a wrench on that nut with the tank in place.
Petcork is in the way from the back, decomp from the front, tank from the side.. and I have fat fingers.

Quote:
Takes 15 minutes and a beer to add this extra slot.  I might even drink another beer and slot the front one before I'm done...Grin


Cutting the slot is not a concern, but it might take more than one beer.  I like beer! Tongue

I will evaluate when I first pull the tank.  Probably try to figure out some kind of friction fit that will lock down tight enough to not rattle with only the front nut holding it.  Probably just a short stud like Gazab did, with some kind of rubber tip over the stud.

Thanks for the explanation.  I just couldn't picture what you were doing from the pictures.

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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #4 - 11/14/07 at 08:58:26
 
I did the plug door when I first joined the forum. I don't use a nut on the back stud, and in 2500 miles it has never rattled or loosened up on me. Some times I do luck out.  I also whacked some length off my plug tool, it makes it easier still to remove the plug, as Greg said.            Hutch
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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #5 - 11/14/07 at 11:04:55
 
I did pull the tank and change the plug just before my trip to Galveston.
I just left the back bolt off completely.  No stud, nothing.
So far, no rattle and the cover has stayed put just from the friction of the rubber cushion on the bottom of the cover.
Time will tell.
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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #6 - 11/15/07 at 10:06:24
 
youzguyz wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:10:
I don't think Gazab44 put a nut back on the top of his.  The stud just sits there, and you lift the cover over the top.

If you say so..  I still don't know how you can get a wrench on that nut with the tank in place.
Petcork is in the way from the back, decomp from the front, tank from the side.. and I have fat fingers.


Good points.  Having used it a couple times, I may leave the nut off too.  The front one is probably good enough.

Quote:
Cutting the slot is not a concern, but it might take more than one beer.  I like beer! Tongue

Thanks to Oldfeller I'm always thinkin 'bout drinkin' and thinkin' Grin

Quote:
I will evaluate when I first pull the tank.  Probably try to figure out some kind of friction fit that will lock down tight enough to not rattle with only the front nut holding it.  Probably just a short stud like Gazab did, with some kind of rubber tip over the stud.

Thanks for the explanation.  I just couldn't picture what you were doing from the pictures.


I've also found that a notch for the bolt (decomp lever) at the front of the cover would help it swing out better.
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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #7 - 11/15/07 at 10:08:56
 
Hutch wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:11:
I did the plug door when I first joined the forum. I don't use a nut on the back stud, and in 2500 miles it has never rattled or loosened up on me. Some times I do luck out.  I also whacked some length off my plug tool, it makes it easier still to remove the plug, as Greg said.            Hutch

It's still cramped in there, but a piece of rubber hose to remove and install the plug takes care of some of the "twiddling" you have to do with the socket.  Just use the socket to loosen and tighten the plug.
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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #8 - 04/08/09 at 10:34:27
 
Do you notice any rattle noise with just the one bolt in the front tight? Huh
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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #9 - 10/07/11 at 07:15:39
 
I removed the rear bolt and I get a horrible rattle in the upper rpms of each gear. It's like a bell reminding me to shift. What can I do differently to get rid of the rattle?
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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #10 - 10/07/11 at 07:32:38
 
cool idea - but even though it is harder and more time consuming i still pull the tank and vacuum the little rock boogers/road debris that accumulate in the spark plug hole BEFORE i take the plug out.....doing a plug change without being able to look down in the hole to see if there is any debris that could get knocked in the open hole when re-inserting the plug could be a problem.
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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #11 - 10/07/11 at 12:53:37
 
I never put my rear bolt back on either and I've never had any rattling issue. Debris are a concern however, dont those heads have a blow hole in there that I can spray air into and dislodge any obstructing material before removing the plug?
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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #12 - 07/12/12 at 12:18:58
 

Oil and grit stick together, you are likely going to have to use a solvent spray around the plug area and an air blast to get rid of all the debris before removing the plug.

The swinging plug door sounds neat, but any bits of grit down the spark plug hole due to this mod may have some bad consequences for your bike's compression and oil consumption.

When you run the engine with the plug out of place you will create a huge suck & blow that will find any grit you left loose in that entire area.
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« Last Edit: 07/12/12 at 13:27:53 by Oldfeller »  

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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #13 - 12/31/16 at 16:05:04
 
Fish wrote on 10/07/11 at 07:15:39:
I removed the rear bolt and I get a horrible rattle in the upper rpms of each gear. It's like a bell reminding me to shift. What can I do differently to get rid of the rattle?


First of all Happy New Year!  
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« Last Edit: 03/09/17 at 07:35:00 by buster6315 »  
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Re: Spark plug door method
Reply #14 - 01/01/17 at 20:42:09
 
[quote author=00171116071054515357620 link=1124016763/0#13 date=1483229104]Fish wrote on 10/07/11 at 07:15:39:
I removed the rear bolt and I get a horrible rattle in the upper rpms of each gear. It's like a bell reminding me to shift. What can I do differently to get rid of the rattle?[/qu

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« Last Edit: 02/24/17 at 08:54:43 by buster6315 »  
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