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my disaster (Read 22 times)
sunny
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Re: my disaster
Reply #15 - 04/06/05 at 07:40:06
 
it starts when you lay a screwdriver across the screw connectors on the starter relay.

took the handlebar switch apart last night and cleaned it out.
both fuses were fine(checked them with a multimeter to be sure).

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flatblack rat - 97

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Re: my disaster
Reply #16 - 04/06/05 at 14:51:43
 
Sunny I hope you found the loose connection.
Sounds like the harness from the bars, no fun.
Might have to hide a small temp auxillary starter switch  and just run new wire to the relay to get by until you can take the thing all apart and find and repair the fault. Black tape and ty-wraps can work wonders when you just wanna ride.  

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Re: my disaster
Reply #17 - 04/08/05 at 08:25:40
 
sunny wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:
it starts when you lay a screwdriver across the screw connectors on the starter relay.

took the handlebar switch apart last night and cleaned it out.
both fuses were fine(checked them with a multimeter to be sure).



Since you can start the bike with a screw driver, then the connection from the relay to the starter and to ground is okay.  You also have +12 on the relay, so forget about that.

What is missing is the circuit on the B/W and Y/B wires.  Those 2 wires plus a B wire are in a 3 wire connector to the relay.  Those 2 wires do what your screw driver does.

You say that you hear nothing, right?  No clicks?  That means that the Decompression Solenoid isn't working either.  Did you try this with the side stand down and clutch lever pulled in, or with the side stand up and clutch lever pulled in?

You do have a green nuetral light, right?  Is the little blue wire below the clutch lever on the right rear side of the engine case okay?  That wire goes up under the tank, and since you pulled out the airbox, I'd also look at that because it was behind the airbox.

The Y/B wire comes from the Decompression Module which is right above the carb under the seat.  That is where I would start and work backwards.  What puts power on the Y/B wire to energize the starter relay is the Y/G wire (notice different color) which comes from the starter button....and also goes through the clutch lever switch.  Check the connector on the clutch lever.  If you need to, pull the connector off and put a small jumper across that and check again.

If you still can't get it to start, pull the tank.  Then go into the Technical Corner and get the electrical schematics.   That is what I am looking at now.  Something has happened to either the positive supply side to the Decompression module, or to B/W negative ground side which goes through the side stand relay, side stand switch, and the side stand diode.  Since the fuses are okay, you have a disconnected wire somewhere.
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Re: my disaster
Reply #18 - 04/08/05 at 09:18:42
 
i'm currently working on the idea that it is the control unit.

i removed the tank and checked continuity(with my handy dandy multimeter) in the various wires from the starter button itself and all is well.
i untaped the entire wiring harness and inspected it carefully for breaks and unplugged wires.

when i tested connectors in the control unit, i found that there is one connection that is closed all the time. since, from my limited understanding of whatthe clymer manual was trying to say, it is supposed to be a timed connection on the condition that there is electricity present on the other prongs, i am guessing something is awry.

since i currently have no money, i shall do some more testing on it, maybe even get up the guts to do the battery test as the manual suggests, and i will let you all know.
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Re: my disaster
Reply #19 - 04/08/05 at 10:11:59
 
sunny wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:
i'm currently working on the idea that it is the control unit.

i removed the tank and checked continuity(with my handy dandy multimeter) in the various wires from the starter button itself and all is well.
i untaped the entire wiring harness and inspected it carefully for breaks and unplugged wires.

when i tested connectors in the control unit, i found that there is one connection that is closed all the time. since, from my limited understanding of whatthe clymer manual was trying to say, it is supposed to be a timed connection on the condition that there is electricity present on the other prongs, i am guessing something is awry.

since i currently have no money, i shall do some more testing on it, maybe even get up the guts to do the battery test as the manual suggests, and i will let you all know.


Money isn't needed.  You have a handy dandy multimeter and schematics Smiley

Step one....with the ignition key ON, do you have 12 volts on one side of the starter button?

Step two....if step one is yes, do you have 12 volts at the clutch lever switch when you push the starter button?

Step three....if one and two are yes, do you have 12 volts at the yellow/green wire on the connector at the decomp module?

Do all these checks using the red lead and with the black lead connected to the frame somewhere.

Why do  battery test?...you jumped it with a screw driver and the lights and horn work, anyway.
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Re: my disaster
Reply #20 - 04/08/05 at 11:39:28
 
You have 2 fat wires and 2 thin wires in the starter rellay. The 2 thin wires are Y/B and B/W. You should have ground / - / on the B/W. Turn the ignition  ON. Take a piece of wire and jump from  "+ "  terminal of the rellay /always connected to the "+" of the battery/  to the Y/B wire of the rellay. You should hear a click and the bike should start. If  NO - check again the ground side B/W and if it is OK-  bad starter rellay.
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Re: my disaster
Reply #21 - 04/08/05 at 11:52:35
 
slavy wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:04:
You have 2 fat wires and 2 thin wires in the starter rellay. The 2 thin wires are Y/B and B/W. You should have ground / - / on the B/W. Turn the ignition  ON. Take a piece of wire and jump from  "+ "  terminal of the rellay /always connected to the "+" of the battery/  to the Y/B wire of the rellay. You should hear a click and the bike should start. If  NO - check again the ground side B/W and if it is OK-  bad starter rellay.


You are right...the B/W is ground, but Sunny said there was "no click" and in reality there should be 2 simultaneous ones.  One for the decomp solenoid followed quickly by the relay.  Since she has none, the problem probably isn't the starter relay.  She isn't getting 12 volts to the decomp module....and the Y/B wire to the relay comes from that module.
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Re: my disaster
Reply #22 - 04/08/05 at 15:25:27
 
The very first thing to create problems to the starting sistem of any Suzuki is the clutch switch. Jumper made of  piece of insulted wire will ensure the switch is not the reason. All my Suzukis are like this.
Key -ON, Start button  -pushed - There should be power on the Y/G wire of the qwestionable black decompr. controller. If there is power there and there is no power in the Y/B wire in the same moment- Bad black decompr. controller.
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Re: my disaster
Reply #23 - 04/08/05 at 15:31:00
 
We are beginning to repeat, I think  Shocked
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sunny
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Re: my disaster
Reply #24 - 04/08/05 at 15:51:30
 
i've printed out the entire thread.
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flatblack rat - 97

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Re: my disaster
Reply #25 - 04/08/05 at 15:54:49
 
Cool.  Just work that Handy Dandy Multimeter and go get 'em Tongue
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Re: my disaster
Reply #26 - 04/09/05 at 09:32:22
 
WHEN IN DOUBT, - JUMP IT OUT!

Safeties?! We don' need no stinkin' Safeties!  Angry
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sunny
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Re: my disaster
Reply #27 - 04/11/05 at 07:46:34
 
ok. the final result is that it runs.

two friends came over while i was on an errand and looked it over. they disconnected all the electrics and reconnected everything. then took the key from the kids and it started right up. they have no clue and neither do i.

dave, an aircraft mech, said the electrics were far too complicated to be on such a simple bike. he offered to create and send me a simplified wiring diagram. i may take him up on that offer, if just for future use. if so i will also offer it to you all.

but for now i am SO not going to look this gift horse in the mouth.
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flatblack rat - 97

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