how long did it take to pollish everything?

how about a tech sect article on pollishing?

Step 1:

Here is front pulley guard that was painted by PO and this is what it will look like under the clear coat after stripping the paint.

Step 2:

Wet sanded with 220 grit to remove all blemishes in the aluminum and you can even remove some of the lighter scratches.



Step 3:

Wet sanded with 400 grit...



Step 4:

Wet sanded with 800 grit...



Step 5:

Wet sanded 1000 grit...



Step 6:

Buffing wheels on old bench grinder with the guards  removed and polish from
WW  Grainger. Cost of wheels and polishing paste about $25.00.

Buff with the black compound and wipe clean then buff with the red compaound and finish with a good sealer wax. Use a dremmal tool to get in the small places.

Very important.... after riding in the rain clean ASAP or the finish will oxidize.

Rockin_John wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:


I have polished the aluminum on several bikes like this and the only problems I have had with oxidation is when the bike sat through the winter or if it got wet and wasn't cleaned soon after. I hesitaed to clear coat because when it does get chipped it discolors the aluminun. Thanks for thr input.

Just to add to this thread... I've used aircraft stripper (Napa carries it) to take off the coating on the alum. When you wipe it on, you can hear it sizzling the coating off. Leave it on for about 1/2 hr depending on how thick of a coating you need to remove. May have to apply it more than once. I've needed hit some areas twice but never more than that. It's also good on paint, so make sure you shoot it on a rag and then wipe it only where you need it. After you wipe off the yellow gunk, (yes wipe. I love this stuff. ) wash it down with plenty of water. Let it dry and then use whatever polish you want. Works great and no elbow grease or sanding needed. Just make sure it's plenty ventilated in your workspace and wear nitrile gloves.