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Polishing Aluminum (Read 840 times)
Crusher0964
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Polishing Aluminum
05/24/07 at 04:57:48
 
Its going to be a lot of black and a little bling. Wink

Just now getting in the parts to put it back together.
I have polished till I pucked. Shocked Much sandpaper, poishing compound and beer involved... Grin





Then my plan for rims (this is not mine just a sample) Satin black rims and spokes with polished hubs.




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vroom1776
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Re: Black and Bling
Reply #1 - 05/25/07 at 05:52:16
 
how long did it take to pollish everything?

how about a tech sect article on pollishing?
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Crusher0964
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Re: Black and Bling
Reply #2 - 05/25/07 at 05:58:24
 
vroom1776 wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:05:
how long did it take to pollish everything?

how about a tech sect article on pollishing?


Including the handlebar switch housings and the hubs which are not pictured... about 2 weeks a couple of hours every evening so about 28 hours or four cases worth Grin

I can post the steps in the tech section if you wish. Wink
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Crusher0964
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Re: Black and Bling
Reply #3 - 06/21/07 at 03:47:13
 
Step 1:

Here is front pulley guard that was painted by PO and this is what it will look like under the clear coat after stripping the paint.

Step 2:

Wet sanded with 220 grit to remove all blemishes in the aluminum and you can even remove some of the lighter scratches.



Step 3:

Wet sanded with 400 grit...



Step 4:

Wet sanded with 800 grit...



Step 5:

Wet sanded 1000 grit...



Step 6:

Buffing wheels on old bench grinder with the guards removed and polish from
WW Grainger. Cost of wheels and polishing paste about $25.00.

Buff with the black compound and wipe clean then buff with the red compaound and finish with a good sealer wax. Use a dremmal tool to get in the small places.

Very important.... after riding in the rain clean ASAP or the finish will oxidize.


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« Last Edit: 07/13/12 at 12:13:08 by Oldfeller »  
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Rockin_John
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Re: Black and Bling
Reply #4 - 06/21/07 at 13:20:10
 
No plans to clear coat over the polished parts to prevent the sudden oxidization? I've done that with bike parts, and even brass lamps, andirons, fireplace screens and other nice polished metal pieces etc... over the years, and it sure beats the heck out of having to wipe down and re-polish frequently. Some of the new epoxies and urethanes are really tough stuff too. Not so bad to nick, scratch and turn milky or crack like the old lacquers/varnish type stuff.
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Crusher0964
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Re: Black and Bling
Reply #5 - 06/22/07 at 12:52:27
 
Rockin_John wrote on 12/31/69 at 16:00:06:
No plans to clear coat over the polished parts to prevent the sudden oxidization? I've done that with bike parts, and even brass lamps, andirons, fireplace screens and other nice polished metal pieces etc... over the years, and it sure beats the heck out of having to wipe down and re-polish frequently. Some of the new epoxies and urethanes are really tough stuff too. Not so bad to nick, scratch and turn milky or crack like the old lacquers/varnish type stuff.


I have polished the aluminum on several bikes like this and the only problems I have had with oxidation is when the bike sat through the winter or if it got wet and wasn't cleaned soon after. I hesitaed to clear coat because when it does get chipped it discolors the aluminun. Thanks for thr input. Wink
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smokin_blue
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Re: Polishing Aluminum
Reply #6 - 06/27/07 at 03:22:16
 
It was suggested to me by an old co-worker/mechanic who builds bikes and cars to check out a product called Zoop Seal.  You can google it on the web.  It supposedly works great!  It claims it will keep a mirror polish aluminum mirrored for 2-3 years!  It works by impregnating the top few microns of aluminum with a ceramic.

Street rodders supposedly love the stuff.  I am definately considering using when I get my cases polished.

Edit: Added link for zoops.com
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MickeyX
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Re: Polishing Aluminum
Reply #7 - 05/04/08 at 21:37:56
 
Just to add to this thread... I've used aircraft stripper (Napa carries it) to take off the coating on the alum. When you wipe it on, you can hear it sizzling the coating off. Leave it on for about 1/2 hr depending on how thick of a coating you need to remove. May have to apply it more than once. I've needed hit some areas twice but never more than that. It's also good on paint, so make sure you shoot it on a rag and then wipe it only where you need it. After you wipe off the yellow gunk, (yes wipe. I love this stuff. Wink) wash it down with plenty of water. Let it dry and then use whatever polish you want. Works great and no elbow grease or sanding needed. Just make sure it's plenty ventilated in your workspace and wear nitrile gloves.  Smiley
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