SuzukiSavage.com - Print Page

SuzukiSavage.com
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl
General Category >> Rubber Side Down! >> Fuse Issue
/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1438207381

Message started by psutton on 07/29/15 at 15:03:01

Title: Fuse Issue
Post by psutton on 07/29/15 at 15:03:01

I just installed a new battery. The second I make the connection to the positive terminal I blow a fuse. Any idea what would be causing this?

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by verslagen1 on 07/29/15 at 15:14:14

A sudden influx of electrons. :-?

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by Kris01 on 07/29/15 at 17:41:40

That's a V-E-R-Y general question. We'll need some more info.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by oldNslow on 07/29/15 at 18:11:05

Connect the Positive cable to the battery FIRST, then connect the Negative cable. You might just be inadvertently touching the frame with your screwdriver when tightening the screw on the positive terminal. It's pretty close quarters if you're working in a stock battery box with an OEM sized battery.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by old.indian on 07/29/15 at 18:20:31

#3) Make certain that you are connecting the battery properly (Not reversed.) #2) Is the ignition OFF (a sudden surge will pop a fuse) #1 Check for dead shorts in the wiring.

Assuming you were replacing the battery because it was old and weak, not totally dead.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by Gary_in_NJ on 07/29/15 at 19:17:34

2A292F2E2E35345A0 wrote:
Any idea what would be causing this?

Too much in rush current. Make sure that the electrical system is off (key out) and that there aren't any dead shorts.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/29/15 at 19:25:00

ALWAYS connect positive first, because Should you accidentally hit ground with the tool and cause a spark, the battery could explode. Hydrogen gas is there. Also, a short to ground can create internal damage.

So, positive first. And be absolutely certain about the polarity.
Key off.
Why did it need a battery?
Background information.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by Boogie_with_Stu on 07/29/15 at 19:26:55

I have removed/installed/removed/installed (ad nauseum) my battery about a dozen times in the last 3 weeks. There are several places that the battery can short to the frame if it is not hooked up carefully.

If you had a perfectly functioning bike (except for the weak battery) before the problem, then it is likely that you are causing it.

Proper fuse is a 7 amp IIRC. remove the fuse first.

Check that the battery box bolts (on the bottom) are tight and that the box doesnt move around.

If you have a usable replacement battery, the terminals should face the rear of the bike and the positive should be on the RIGHT side.

Install battery all the way, making sure it is as far to the left as it can go. Do this with the battery terminal screws OFF of the battery.

There are 2 wires on the positive side. A large wire with the battery connector terminal on it, and a ring-lug for the fuse block. I put the ring lug UNDER the larger battery connector terminal, but that is just my preference. Regardless, install these 2 positive wires using a long phillips head that has electrical tape wrapped around the entire length of the screwdriver shank. When you have gotten it as tight as you can with the screwdriver, finish off with a 10mm open end wrench. Good and snug, but dont over tighten it.

Pull the rubber boot down over the terminal that you just attached. Make sure that the boot fully covers the exposed metal of the connector terminal and that nothing is touching the metal battery case.
Do NOT install the battery cover/tool bag holder yet.

Now install the negative terminal with that same insulated screwdriver. There is only on wire on the negative side. Again, make sure the wire isnt cut, bunched up, or pinched.

With keys OUT, install the fuse. If it blows immediately then you have a wire pinched somewhere. If it doesnt blow, turn the ignition to the ON position for 10 seconds, then off again. Check fuse. If it's still OK, try starting the bike.

If you have a running motorcycle at this point, then it may be that you pinched a wire when you installed the internal battery cover/tool bag holder.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by verslagen1 on 07/29/15 at 20:21:33

fuse shouldn't blow unless key is on.
Although there are a few things that I think are always on.
decomp controller and starter relay have power to them.

does the starter jump? no then not it.
but if stuck on, give the fender a rap right below the ig switch to unstick it.

replace fuse with a 12v light.
when you connect battery, the light won't blow.
and when you fix the condition, the light will be off.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/29/15 at 21:06:25

eplace fuse with a 12v light.
when you connect battery, the light won't blow.
and when you fix the condition, the light will be off.

You GO, Boy!!!

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by verslagen1 on 07/29/15 at 21:35:57

I think it was digger who 1st told us that.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by psutton on 07/29/15 at 21:41:39

The fuse blows without the keys even in the ignition. I'll go buy a light bulb tomorrow and report back with my findings. I appreciate all of your help on this.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by verslagen1 on 07/29/15 at 22:36:40

The connectors on a fuse is similar to spade connectors.
2 of these and about a 8 watt wired light and you'd be set.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by justin_o_guy2 on 07/29/15 at 23:41:29

A blown fuse and a dremel and soldering iron.., Heck, alligator clips,,

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by Boogie_with_Stu on 07/30/15 at 10:09:47

The starter relay has power to it without the key switch turned on??

Ok, chalk that up to "hmm...didnt know that". Is that the unit that sits between the rear fender and the air intake (under the seat)?

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by verslagen1 on 07/30/15 at 10:18:22

3A37373F313D752F312C30752B2C2D580 wrote:

Yup, directly connected to the battery with a huge a$$ cable. Just waiting for someone to push the starter button.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by psutton on 07/30/15 at 12:24:40

Update: Main fuse blows regardless of the order connecting to the terminals. I've checked the wires that go to the ignition switch, the battery, and all ground wires associated (except for whats under the tank.) I've even looked into the Decomp fuse. Nothing is loose or exposed to the frame. Considering taking to a small brick and mortar if no one has any other hypothesis.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by Dave on 07/30/15 at 12:44:46

The only way to track this stuff down, is to start disconnecting stuff.

I would put the light bulb in place of the fuse as others have suggested, and because there is a direct short the bulb will light up.

Then you start disconnecting things and see of any of them make the light to out. It is the only way you are going to be able to locate what circuit (and where) the short is located.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by old_rider on 07/30/15 at 12:58:17

You never did say, why you were replacing the battery in the first place. Or If you had done any maintenance before changing out the battery.

Also, is the replacement an OEM or just one you purchased that fit?

Make double sure you have the proper posts on the proper side..... the battery should be marked, but I have seen crazy crap from "knock off" Chinese stuff, it could be marked wrong.

The only thing I could see if you have done everything correctly, is the driver side harness might have developed a chaffing spot on the "outside" of the box and is shorting out against the triangle cover or the box itself.

You will have to check both the cables and make triple sure there are no chaff or bare spots.

Have you tried installing the fuse "after" you have hooked up the battery? Make sure to use rubber handled pliers to be safe.

That's all I have for now...
Wish I was close... to help you out.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by verslagen1 on 07/30/15 at 13:35:57

The usual suspect for a short is the wiring harness.
I know that should really narrow it down for you.
Look at any location that passes over a corner/edge or between 2 parts.
1 place in particular is the headlight shell where the wires go thru the opening.
These are usually a short between 2 wires in the bundle.
If you really want to find it fast, then replace the fuse with a solid wire then look for melting wire, smoke or fire. :-?

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by Dave on 07/31/15 at 03:22:37

The fact that the fuse blows with the ignition switch turned OFF, means that the short will be in the wires that go from the battery to the ignition switch......or to the starter solenoid....or whatever else is not engergized when the switch is turned off. (Provided the switch is not bad).

The first thing I would do is put in the test light in place of the fuse, and then unplug the ignition switch and see what happens. There are two fuses....one goes to the ignition switch and the other one to the decompression controller. Do you know which one is blowing? If the ignition switch doesn't function after the switch blows.....that indicates it is in that circuit.

Title: Re: Fuse Issue
Post by chzeckmate on 07/31/15 at 22:21:19

You were replacing your battery and now you're blowing fuses. This reminds me of what I just went through. I'd like to suggest testing your regulator rectifier. There are instructions around here for that or you can look it up on YouTube. I think your regulator rectifier killed your battery (parasitic draw) and now that you have a new battery it's blowing your fuse. I replaced my regulator rectifier ($20 on ebay) and all was made well. Remove your regulator rectifier and test with a multimeter...I'll wager it's your culprit.