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Porting (Read 46 times)
zevenenergie
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Porting
Yesterday at 09:41:20
 
Hi Guys,

I’m experimenting a bit with tuning my cylinder head. I’m currently working on a valve job and pocket porting; using a coefficient of 0.87 for the 33mm intake valve gives me 28.36mm.
Unfortunately, that doesn't remove the casting flaw or notch located just below the valve seat.
I’m now considering a coefficient of 0.89, which yields 29mm, as that would allow me to remove more of that casting flaw.

What coefficient do you guys use when flowing the Savage head?

I don,t want to be that guy that remove,s to much and kills the flow.
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FinnHammer
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Re: Porting
Reply #1 - Yesterday at 13:42:08
 
I think that a smooth transition is more important than adhering to a coefficient.
However, adhering to that coefficient will produce a transition to the valve seat which is most favourable, particularly at low opening of the valve.
When using a higher numerical value coefficient, the transition becomes like a sharp corner, whereas a smaller throat allows for a rounded transition.
This can be further refined by cutting multible angles into the seat and sourroundings, or to use a Serdi machine, with a profiled cutter which creates a rounded profile.
Some folks say that the multi angle cut, with it's sharp edges promotes better atomization.
My 5 cents.
Cheers, Finn Hammer
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zevenenergie
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Re: Porting
Reply #2 - Yesterday at 15:36:46
 
Thanks for your five cents. I’m kind of torn on this one. The valve seat and its angles are the bottleneck—you can't afford to mess that up—but turbulence right in front of it isn't ideal either. I didn't build a flow bench, so I can't just gradually remove material and see what happens.

I don't have a Serdi machine, Sad but I do have Wolf valve seat grinding equipment, so I can cut the angles very precisely and keep them sharp.

https://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/wolf-electric-valve-seat-grinder-set-5...  Smiley
It’s a slightly more recent version that I’ve refurbished.

Edit:

I’d like to revisit my earlier comment about achieving sharp transitions with grinding stones.
After playing around with the tool for a bit, I’ve realized it’s not ideal; the stones chatter against the seat, and within a blink of the eye, a groove forms in the stone, ruining the flat surfaces.
I got one seat done by turning the stones slowly but it takes forever.

Also, with a 33mm valve, there is practically no room for the 60-degree angle required for a 3-angle valve job. I was only able to create a small chamfer that looks more like deburring than anything else.

A slightly larger valve would solve this.
Some where in a topic I had heard "Dragbike Mike" wanting to usage a valve that was 1mm larger, and now I understand why.

That would allow for a 3-angle valve job and likely let you mill away that casting defect as well.
So, the next step is to look for a larger valve. Does anyone have tips as in were to find them?


[img][/img]
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« Last Edit: Today at 05:53:58 by zevenenergie »  

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Re: Porting
Reply #3 - Today at 09:59:00
 
Zevenenergie,

I grinding stone should never be in contact with the workpiece along it's full circomference. That is a recipy for disaster as you found out.
In fact, I tend to think that one is better off having the seats done by a professional cylinder and head service. But if you insist on doing it by hand, even using the standard mill-type cutters, be prepared for a learning experience, and for that, a broken head is invaluable to experiment with.

As for the valves, Honda CB350 inlet valves fit well, and the standard ones are 34mm.
You can get them as 1mm oversize = 35mm diametre, here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/174478425798
I just bought another set from him.
If 35 is too much, you can grind them down to 34mm no problem.

The standard valve seat is 35mm outside, and this may lead to problems, if that is the case, I will have bigger valve seats fitted (by professionals, since they have the liquid nitrogen to shrink them into place)

Cheers, Finn Hammer
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zevenenergie
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Re: Porting
Reply #4 - Today at 11:29:12
 
Thanks for thinking along. This device was made specifically for this purpose, so I think something else is going on. This device dates back to the 1950s and professionals used it daily.

I put some of the grinding stones in the ultrasonic cleaner with a de-greaser. The resin inside the stones may have partially dissolved, perhaps that is why they lose their shape at the slightest chatter.  

I would indeed outsource replacing those valve seats, because if even a bit of aluminum curls up during insertion, the job is ruined.

Thanks for that address on eBay Smiley, I'm going to contact him for a number of valves (probably 2).

I also found an address that has a Chrome Silicon Steel 34.5mm valve with a chrome-plated valve stem. Only the keylocking part doesn't match. The price including shipping works out very low. I'm going to test if I can make that modification on an old valve; that would save a lot of money.
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zevenenergie
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Re: Porting
Reply #5 - Today at 11:57:12
 
I immediately got behind the lathe to recreate the keyway; the steel is really rock hard.

But I managed to reproduce the shape.It,s not an exact copy but that will com later. Actually, it should be ground into it because the material is so hard, but it does work with a carbide insert and a little effort.

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zevenenergie
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Re: Porting
Reply #6 - Today at 12:08:03
 
Now that I look closely at the drawing of the eBay valve, my attention is drawn to the dotted line at the end of the valve; it looks as if the end is hollowed out.
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