Be careful with those special "acorn cap bolts".  More than a few members have stripped out their aluminum cylinder head messing with those special bolts.  They look pretty, but it is very easy to get the bolt misaligned when trying to juggle the header pipe, flange, and bolt.  This is especially important when installing a new, uncompressed gasket.  With the new gasket, you can only get a few turns on the bolt before you need to switch from fingers to a wrench.  If the bolt is skewed, you end up ripping out the internal threads in the head.

Regarding torque, with that big thick spiral wound gasket in there, a torque wrench is close to useless because the gasket just keeps compressing.  In addition, the flange is made of some sort of pot metal and it bends easily.  The combination of the soft gasket and flexible flange makes achieving a consistent torque next to impossible.  You are crushing the gasket and bending the flange instead of stretching the bolt.

I personally prefer switching from bolts to studs with nuts.  With studs, you always know you have complete thread engagement in the aluminum cylinder head.  This old post provides info.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1665791582