Billybobber wrote on 07/10/25 at 21:47:33:
it's just like leaving a stock thingy on "Reserve".
Finally a question...what is needed in the carb?
Any chance I didn't destroy the motor?
Once I "fix" the carb (needle/seat) HOW TO? is there a way to test that the carb won't let fuel through when it's not supposed to, when the thingy is on, accidenltely?
The "thingy" is known as a petcock.
Doing a google search, I quickly found two other reports of LS650s severely internal leaking of fuel into the crankcase. This is always a danger, but I've never heard of a model that was particularly predisposed towards the failure mode.
Gasoline dilutes the oil, and bearings and piston /cylinder wall protection are compromised. Hopefully the whirring noise you heard wasn't severe damage or a coincidental failure due to a different issue. I'd assume that the engine died from a very rich mixture, hope for the best, replace the oil, fix the carb, and try again. Once it's running, if the noise manifests again, I'd identify it and take steps to fix it.
The solution to the fuel internal leak is to fix the float valve in the carb bowl. Sticking floats is a pretty common problem, especially on bikes that spend a lot of time sitting. It's safe to suppose that an 18 year old machine with under 2000 miles on the odometer is in that category.
You should invest in a service manual. Another book that I can recommend to anyone who wants to learn to do their own work is "Motorcycles : Fundamentals, Service, and Repair Hardcover" by Bruce A Johns, David D. Edmundson, & Robert Scharff, used for training motorcycle technicians. It contains a lot of knowledge, for very little money.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/226826374865I'd take off the carb, remove the bowl, and inspect. Because you are inexperienced, I recommend you disassemble as little as possible, but I'd remove and clean the main jet, the pilot jet, and note their sizes while I was in there. I'd check the CV slide for free sliding operation, and I'd make sure the float valve seemed to be free and functional.
I'd reassemble, then use the "clear tube" method of setting the float level to check that the float valve was doing its job. The concept of this is pictured here:
https://www.kzrider.com/media/kunena/attachments/6412/cleartubecombo-2.jpg