The PUDA slide needle tip is .001” larger than the OEM slide needle tip (.100” vs .099”).

If you place the two needles side by side in a dial caliper, you get a pretty good idea of the difference between the two needles.  It looked to me like I could probably achieve the same aperture between the needle jet and needle by installing the PUDA needle with the e-clip in the lowest groove and leaving the white spacer out.  If I need to go richer, there’s no more adjustment, but if I need to go leaner there are two more grooves and the white spacer.  Plenty of options for leaner, no easy options for richer.

And the TEV diaphragm fit like a glove.  This looks like a keeper.

The PUDA kit comes with five main jets (#125, #130, #135, #140, & #145).  I checked all five with pin gages and the jets are the correct orifice size.  The kit also comes with three pilot jets (#42,5, #45, & #47.5).  Did the same pin gage checks and the orifices are correct.
 
I have no idea why they would provide so many jets smaller than the OEM specified jets.  The early models were delivered with a #155 main jet and a #47.5 pilot jet.  The late models were delivered with a #145 main jet and a #52.5 pilot jet.  These motorcycles come super-lean from the factory.  Why would anyone want to jet it leaner?

Since the genuine Mikuni #152.5 main jet that was in TL’s carb would not thread all the way into the PUDA needle jet, I installed the #145 PUDA main jet.  That’s how the factory delivered it.  As long as TL’s motorcycle isn’t heavily hot-rodded, the #145 should be fine.  Hey TL, what state of tune is your bike in?  I left the #52.5 pilot jet as-is (factory).

Look at these markings on the PUDA jets.  Shameless.

The PUDA float needle looks excellent.  The spring-loaded pin has a generous radius.  Very nice attention to detail.  A feature like that promotes smooth action between the tang on the float and the pin.

The kit came with a full compliment of fasteners.  Lucky you TL, all new screws.  It even comes with a new bowl drain-plug and gasket, but the current drain plug is rounded off and corroded.  I passed on that item.  Last thing I need to do is break off that drain plug.  Let it be.

YouTube of the test:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LUdv7UnIvDA


I think the test is adequate to prove that these PUDA parts are satisfactory.  Anyone with basic carb tuning skills can dial this baby in.

In summary:
-New float needle & seat (from all about carbs kit)
-PUDA float seat retainer & screw
-Float level set to 28mm
-Custom 7mm idle mixture screw, carb body drilled & tapped to suit
-PUDA needle jet
-PUDA slide needle, e-clip in bottom groove, no white spacer
-Main jet PUDA #145
-Pilot jet OEM #52.5
-PUDA TEV diaphragm (air cutoff valve)
-New PUDA screws all around

Thanks for letting me play with your carb TL.  I can mail it back to you just as it is, or I can hold on to it and install the OEM parts if you send them to me.  I would prefer to mail it back to you as-is.  That way, you can put it on your bike and ride it.  We will learn a bit more about how well the kit works, and we can see if my estimation for your slide needle position was good (3rd groove, no white spacer).  LMK how you want to proceed.

This was a fun project.

ThumperLife had the new Genuine Suzuki needle jet and needle sent to me.  I left the new parts in their original packages and sent them back to Texas with the carburetor.   You should have that carb in 3 or 4 days TL; please LMK that you receive it OK.  It's insured for $900 bucks. 

I left the carb as-is.   That way we can learn how well the PUDA carb parts work on the road.

TL, please install the carb as-is and try it out.  Ride it around and let us know how well the carburetor works.  If you don’t like the way it works, and you don’t feel that some minor adjustments will iron out the kinks, you have the new OEM parts.  We all know those will work good.  But as you can see from my ops test video, that carburetor is working just fine as-is.  It just needs a road test to confirm.  You might need to make fine adjustments to the idle mixture setting or the e-clip position on the needle.

I don’t know how your bike is configured.  I’m pretty sure I have asked you about that.  If you have a stock airbox and a moderate exhaust setup (like a Dyna muffler on a stock header), that #145 main jet should work fine.  I lapped your #152.5 to the new PUDA needle jet, so it fits the PUDA unit OK.  If you want to run a #147.5 or a #150, don’t force them into the needle jet.  If they bind, you will have to lap the threads on the new jets.  It’s easy, but it requires removal of the needle jet, and it takes a few minutes.  Needless to say, you wanna clean the components up real good after the thread lapping.  Testing the bike on the road with the PUDA components installed will be most beneficial to all of us.  I’m sure I can speak for the other members when I say that we all will really appreciate you giving it a whirl and letting us know how it goes.

In the event that you are unsure about the R&R procedure, I did a tutorial video.  If you decide to change the parts, this video should provide enough information to complete the task.  It's not my best effort, and I continually screw up and refer to the needle jet as the "needle valve", and contradict myself on retainer plate orientation (the teet goes down), but I'm pretty sure you will figure out that the old geezer making the vid just went a bit foggy.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqEYuwm0hw0


Keep us in the loop.