I like it, Dave.  I really want one, but subdivision living creates a storage issue.  I live at the end of a cul-da-sac, so I was able to install a double gate on one side of the house (about 10’ wide).  That let me store an 18’ boat in the backyard for the 2 years I had it.  It was tight between the houses and my good neighbor was ok with me occasionally trenching a rut down the property line to back it in there.  The boat was low enough to hide below the 6’ privacy fence so the HOA left me alone.  If they could have seen it from the street, I would have got a letter and told to remove it in 30 days.  If I get a toy hauler, I want it at least 6’ tall inside and that would make it visible from the street.  I may forge ahead and get one anyway, but most likely it won’t happen until my wife retires in 2-3 years and we buy a property/home in the “country”.

When you added electric, did you install an RV style breaker panel?  Trying to think of the best way to do that.  

On our last 3 camping trips, we’ve lost 3 tents and a canopy due to high winds and thunderstorms.  I’m pretty tired of that.  The wife says we are buying a new tent this year and I’m saying we’ll find campsites with small cabins.  The toy hauler/camper would be a nice compromise and great excuse to bring a bike.  I’m thinking 5x10 with a low ramp and side door.

This is the inside with the LED lights on and the wheel chock in place.  I have since added a steel bar across the floor at the beginning of the V nose to hold the wheel chock in place.  The carpet runner keeps the rubber feet on the wheel chock and motorcycle tires from staining the floor black (something that happened on my previous trailer floor).

When I go camping I also take a 10x10 pop up awning and park the motorcycle under it at night or on those raining days!

For sleeping I now use an inflatable air mattress and just lay it on the floor.  I have tried this camper out in my driveway during cold weather to see what it takes to keep me comfortable.  On a 10 degree night I found out that a 500 watt heater is just not enough to keep the inside comfortable and I got cold.  A few nights later I tried with a 1,300 watt heater and it got too warm after a couple of hours....I could have fooled around with the thermostat a bit and got it right - but at that point I proved it was possible and I went inside to sleep!  The walls and ceiling warmed up and did not feel cold when I put my hand on them - however the floor never did warm up and was very cold.  I did insulate the floor underneath - however it is 3/4" thick and in full contact with the aluminum framework underneath, and I just don't believe it will ever get warm when the weather is really cold.  The air mattress on top of the cold floor did a good job of keeping the cold from getting up to my sleeping bag.  I do crack the windows a slight amount to keep the moisture from building up inside the trailer while I am sleeping...that does require a bit more heat to compensate for the loss of heat out the window.

ThumperPaul wrote on 01/22/25 at 06:21:11:


The opening at the top is a vent with a fan.  It is a MaxxAir fan with a low profile/rain proof cover.  You can leave it open and the rain will not come in.  The fan has 4 speeds and it is very quiet on the lower settings.

Most of my summer travels are to the area around TN/NC/GA area in the Blue Ridge/Smoky Mountains, and even in the summer when daytime temperatures get into the 90's the night temperatures are cool enough for reasonable for sleeping.  The ceiling fan will provide enough air flow for the summer nights.

Adding AC to a camping trailer is not incredibly easy.  The RV style roof mounted ones are expensive, heavy and very noisy.  They are also far too powerful for a small trailer and will cycle ON/OFF continually.

Using a small residential style window AC can be done - it takes a bit to adapt them to a small camping trailer (unless you just mount it in the wall and let it poke out the side of the trailer).   There are a lot of videos on YouTube that show how to install one of these inside the camper bodywork and build duct work to run the hot and cold air where it needs to go - and it is a bit of an issue to get it done correctly so that the trailer will remain waterproof when towing it down the highway during rain or wet roads....as the trailer must have large vents cut into the walls.

Using the portable AC units appears to be easier to me - they just need a hole cut for the exhaust air and that is easy to do and seal up while traveling.  You can even place the AC unit outside and run the cooling air hose to the trailer on some models.

There is a fellow who camps at the Cherohala campground who has a window until he built into the left front wall of the trailer.  He has a rectangular plastic tote that he attaches over the AC when traveling to protect the AC from the elements - the tote is also in place when he is not using the AC.

ThumperPaul wrote on 01/22/25 at 10:49:39:



Watch YouTube videos on converting trailers and you will see lots of good ideas.  There are hatches/doors available that can be opened and swing out of the way - and you can then install the window AC unit.  When done you can pull out the AC and just close the hatch.

You can buy small AC units pretty cheaply, and they are plenty big enough for a small camper.

Here is an example of the portable unit installation.  Portable units come with either a single or double hose.  The single hose pulls air from inside the room and blows the hot exhaust out - the double unit pulls air from outside the unit and then blows the hot air out.

You can easily install two holes in the floor or wall to vent the hoses and close them up when you remove the AC unit.  RV and boat retailers have a good selection of round access ports with lids that cover the hole when not in use.  Or a PVC pipe with a cap would work.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=awrlPIaiNbc

One huge consideration for what you need in your trailer is how you intend to use it.  

For me the trailer is used to haul the motorcycle and my riding gear to and from the riding site and protect it from the elements - the motorcycle is clean, dry and secure while traveling.  The trailer also serves as my sleeping area once I get to the riding area....and I park at a campground/resort that provides a bath house/bathroom.  Most often I do not have access to 110V "shore power" - and that is fine as I do not cook food or use AC or need heat.  I have not ever needed to "boondock" for extended periods of time - my rides take me to places I can get food and drink. My riding is done in a climate where daytime temperatures can be in the 90's but cool down to the 70's in the summer - fall and winter riding can have overnight temperatures drop into the 50's....that is very comfortable sleeping inside the camper without any AC or heat needed.  A small amount of battery power provides the power I need to run the ceiling fan and charge my USB devices for several days.....I do have a 100 watt solar panel that I can use (and if needed I do have a small 2,400 watt inverter/generator that I could use.

If you are going to be using your trailer in hotter/colder climates or using the trailer for actual "living" while traveling - your needs are going to be far different.  Having heat/AC, a water supply, a bathroom and the ability to refrigerate food and cook adds considerably to what you need in your trailer........and including your wife on the trip really makes a difference and requires a lot bigger trailer to provide sleeping areas for 2 people.  Running AC, a microwave, a fridge, heat, etc. really ramps up the system you need to provide power.

If you want a trailer/camper that has AC/heat/water/bathroom, etc. that provides a comfortable living space.....and is more than just a "rigid tent" - you should consider trying to find a good used commercially made toy hauler.  We bought a used one for $11,000 and used it for a couple of years, and sold it for what we paid - it wasn't a break even event as I had to install new tires, bought a cover for off season storage, and sold it with a water hose and other essentials I had purchased.  Doing this will often get you a fully functional camper that is likely more reliable and comfortable than anything you can build, and it doesn't require you to spend a lot of time fabricating something.  Our toyhauler was 23' long and was a Greywolf 19RR.  It was towable with a 1/2 ton truck and was a comfortable living space for two people.  With the motorcycle inside the only thing we lost was the dining room table - we could camp comfortably on while traveling with the motorcycle inside.  It did not have a generator so we could not use the AC, TV or microwave if we were not plugged in at a campsite - however the 12V battery could power the lights propane furnace, water heater and cook top/oven for several days.  While traveling to our destination we could overnight at Cracker Barrel, Walmart, Rest Areas, etc without paying for camping.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/584927901134198/?ref=search&referra...  

NOTE:  The only big problem I had with the Greywolf 19RR toyhauler I had was the deck height was very high.  Using the rear ramp was very difficult with the stock ramp as it was very steep.  I had to build a ramp extension that provided a longer ramp for loading my 500-600 pound street bikes.

I've built out two sprinter vans for travel (I sold the first one).  We keep our camping, hiking, biking, ski equipment along with inflatable kayaks stored under the bed.  I have a hitch rack for hauling our motorcycle or scooter.  

It suits our needs perfectly.

ThumperPaul wrote on 01/23/25 at 07:21:42:


If you looking for an interim solution - I suggest you go cheap/small for until you (and the wife) need something bigger.  Get a used 5x8 cargo trailer with a 5' height.  Find the cheapest one you can get that is in good shape and doesn't leak.  If it has a ramp rear door you will need a side door to use while camping inside - if it has cargo rear doors you can use them while you are inside sleeping by installing a latch inside.  You can insulate the walls and ceiling, install a vent fan in the roof and do some basic wiring for power.  If you need AC you can do a simple opening in the rear door that allows you to install the AC when parked - it could be removed for travel.

A 5x8 trailer can easily be moved into your back yard if they are allowed to be parked there by your HOA.....or you might be able to find a friend or relative who will allow you to park it on their property.  Look at YouTube videos and you will be amazed what folks have done with these small trailers.


And really - my little 4x8 trailer was a great trailer for the 12 years that I owned it.  It could be parked sideways in the back of my garage and I still had room to park my Vibe in the garage.  For a single person hauling the motorcycle and camping single - it has plenty of room for hauling all but the biggest motorcycles and worked great!  I bought it used for $1,000 and it was one of the best investments I have ever made!

My small 4x8 trailer was

Hay Dave

That is the same AC unit I picked up.  It fits in the middle of the floor with a Dryer Vent hose guiding the hot air out !    We got it for working over at our son's house last summer and saw how easy it is !

The Diesel Heater exaust is easy in my tractor shed but the same Diesel Heater in the Trailer is going to heat the exaust pipe up a lot to much to rest against anything but metal.    I'm thinking it needs a "heat Sink" like a small radiator before it get to the floor/wall to exit , what have you thought of ?