MMRanch wrote on Yesterday at 20:56:00:I'm watching videos' about how to mount solar panels and hook things up. From what I gather ... everything possible needs to stay DC and only a couple of plugs need to be AC.
I agree - you should run as many things from the 12V source as you can - you lose some efficiency when you convert the 12V to 120V using an inverter. If you intend to buy a fridge - find one that is wired for 12V. Not only will you avoid the need to convert the voltage - 12V appliances built for camper use are going to be designed to be as efficient as possible.
My trailer does not have solar - but it does have a 12V battery mounted outside the trailer on the tongue. It is outside as a charging lead acid batter puts off hydrogen gas (and I didn't want to take up any indoor space). I initially went with lead acid as Lithium were just horribly expensive when I built the trailer....and I already had a couple of batteries in the RV I could borrow. Lithium prices keep coming down and I will buy one for this camper someday.
My camper is wired for 12V LED interior lights, it has a 12V cigarette lighter socket with a battery voltage display so I can monitor the battery, the roof vent is 12V.
I do have a "shore power" plug that I use to recharge the battery - I have to either plug into an outlet at the campground or use a generator to charge. I do have 2 outlets for 120V inside the camper, and when I am plugged in to a 120V source I can run an electric heater inside the camper. Since most of my trips are only a few days long and I am only running a vent fan, charging my phone and powering a few lights - the battery has enough capacity without charging.
For recharging my battery I have a NOCO battery tender that was built for charging/maintaining deep cycle batteries. It has the ability to work with conventional lead acid batteries, AGM or Lithium batteries. Your solar system will need something similar to monitor the power in the batteries.
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