To adjust the clutch cable, you generally make small adjustments at the lever/perch.  You’re fine if you have it set with a little free play as previously mentioned.  Large clutch cable adjustments would need to be made at the other end using the “large adjustment” adjuster.  You generally would not make the adjustment here unless you have run out of adjustability at the lever/perch.  That said, some people prefer to adjust down there rather than at the lever/perch.  When you run out of adjustability at both ends, your cable needs replacement.  In reality, the cable would likely fray or break before you run out of adjustability at both ends.

I’ll let you work out the non-working choke with JOG.  If y’all didn’t clean that area and circuit, it’s probably just stuck and not broke.  You could/should clean it up, reinstall, or install the choke off your old carb.  You gotta figure out why it’s not working - is it because it’s dirty in there? Or because the choke is just toast.  If it’s dirty in there, neither choke may function properly.  Putting a good clean part in an infected hole = dysfunction.

With a short open exhaust pipe without baffle, it’s virtually impossible to eliminate all afterburn (snap crackle, pop, bang, boom, pow) on deceleration.  JOG said it was jetted for a Dyna muffler, and that’s probably fine.  BUT has the “white spacer mod” been done on the slide needle?  The best known fix for reducing afterburn on deceleration is to raise the needle by reducing the thickness of the shim (white spacer) or replacing the white spacer with a “couple” thinner washers.

More here —> http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1104205157

I’m still not grasping why it was felt necessary to lube the slide.  Was it just a random question or was there some kind of perceived performance issue (perhaps poor throttle response) that you thought lubing the slide would alleviate?  When you had the carb taken apart, did the slide show wear - exposed bare metal where the black coating was worn off?  Again, I’m unclear why the lube job.  Even with a good slide with its nice slick black coating intact, the slide can stick if the slide bore is dirty from like old gas varnish buildup on the walls.  Same analogy - nice clean part trying to go up and down in an infected hole = dysfunction.  Lubing the good part won’t cure the infection.

Sounds like you guys have pretty much whipped that carb into submission.  Congratulations.  Who's who in the picture?

Sounds like a plan, and it sounds like a thorough cleaning is in order and a white spacer mod.  Gotta get that carb cleaner in every passage, let it soak, use carb cleaning brushes in the passages where you can, and blow it out with an air compressor with a small nozzle.  But y’all probably know that.

The “spray lube” y’all applied to the slide was probably washed off with gas sucking through there and sucked into the combustion chamber within the first 10 minutes.  It probably ran a little rough, searched to find even idle, maybe a little smokey, and the spark plug might be a little fouled depending on what kind of “lube” y’all used.

Touching the slide with your oily fingers won’t hurt it, but some good rubber gloves are always highly recommended when playing with carb cleaner and other toxic stuff.  Likewise, a 12-pack of beer and riding probably isn’t a good idea.

The petcock valve has an “off” position.  Try using that nifty feature instead of draining the tank.

I still can’t figure out how you “notice the slide” after you’re on the bike and the carb is fully assembled.

I’ll step away from the keyboard now.  Good luck guys.  Over and out!