the air/fuel screw is stripped out when i bought it.  I want to change it out, but i changed out the petcock with the raptor and plugged the vaccum  hole on the carb and it runs great with choke out but bogs down once I push it in a hit throttle.  
Did i make mistake going raptor?  I want new carb so i can adjust when needed.  I just received on VM36 from ebay but doens't have the throttle cable hook up....this has a different top on it.

Tippy,I have a carburetor and I'm just fifty miles north of Flint. It's jetted pretty well. It runs good with a Dyna . Well it Ran good,till I stacked it up on a car.I actually have 2.

tippytop wrote on 11/05/24 at 22:33:15:
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Welcome TippyTop.  

I would try get the stock carburetor working before going through all of the trouble of swapping carbs.  But before you do anything, you should confirm your using the "choke" correctly.  

The knob is technically an enrichment circuit and it has three positions.  

• The closed position is used once the bike is started and has reached FULL operating temperature.   If you push the knob closed before the bike is fully warmed up it will have a low idle and bog until the engine is warmed up.
• The partially open is used to once the engine is running and will help maintain a healthy idle and prevent a properly jetted bike from bogging which will allow it to be ridden during the warm up.
• The open position or "Full Choke" is used for cold starts.

You may know this but many people overlook the purpose of the partial open position.  You can expect bogging for several minutes if you aren't using the "choke" during warm up.  This is especially true with stock jetting (if you have it) as it's usually leaner than what is often recommended.  

Also, never adjust the idle mixture until the engine is at full operating temperature.

Good luck.

I'm not physically able to get one off. If he wants one, he can come get it. We can put it on a bench,clean it up,and he can take it home. But the labor to get it in my hands would total me out for a coupla days. I'm not up for that.
Thanks for the offer. If I could get the clutch cover off,Dave would have a place for it. It's just in a place where I can't get there without hurting myself. If the backhoe was still alive, I could pluck it outta there.. But it's dead and I'm just not able to fight that fight.

JOG wrote on 11/07/24 at 22:37:54:


Thanks for thinking of me.....I bought a clutch cover from eBay and it should arrive this week.

Good morning All!
I appreciate all the feedback.  So I started my return to the seller on ebay as well as the flange I got for it.  I guess that was the only part number i became familiar with on this site so i ran with that.  
I've been searching for a stock on line based on thumpers part description/# and have had zero luck.
I have taken this stock carb off three times over the last several months so i feel comfortable with removal but have not pulled jets out only made it to the float assembly before turning back and running for the hills.
Well, of course the bike hasn't really run the same since and i did put a generic seal on the float cover and I did change the spark plug to a newer style which i had to remove the tip from....NOT very KATA like.  
It really wasn't until recently I realized the air/fuel mixture screw was what appears now drilled out.  I can only assume to remove the brass cap and they went too deep...?  Either way there is no way to adjust now.  This was the one reason for the new carb purchase.
I thought i was having some petcock issues so ended up ordering 3 of those, none the stock valve, but all looked like it... the final one being the raptor which was on the bike for one day and put stock on back on.
I will slow roll this and return the VM and take Jog up on his offer this weekend.  I love riding this bike and starting to enjoy working on it as i become more familiar with what means what.  I hope to graduae one day to the header...lol
Sorry for the book, but do appreicate all the feedback.  
How much should one pay for a working carb?

I'm gonna PM you my phone number.

For backfires...

Make sure your idle is adjusted correctly. It should be set around 1100 rpm. A 550 bpm metronome can approximate the idle speed.  If it's too low, it will backfire more on deceleration than if it is a little too high.  

The guy I bought my bike from had it jetted overly rich and it backfired much worse than it did with stock jetting. You shouldn't need more than a 50/150 pilot/main on the people unless you are riding in Antarctica or below sea level.

Some amount of "afterfire" is considered normal with these bikes.   My bike will "snap-crackle-n-pops" when ridden hard before it's warmed up or when temperatures are below ~50 degrees, but mostly goes away once warmed up.  

For reference, I commute on my bike.  Temperatures can range from the mid-30s in the mornings to the upper-90s in the afternoons.  Elevations range between 600-1100 feet above sea level.    

That's been my experience anyway.

Good luck.