A good thorough cleaning never hurts as long as you can get it all put back together correctly.  If you use the dip bath method, make sure you remove all the o-rings and rubber parts (diaphragm and TEV diaphragm).

Good diagram of the carb in post #2 —>   http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?board=tech;action=display;num=1098869040

Removing Air/Fuel Mix Screw —>  http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1350749896/0

If you decide to clean it or not, you have to get that A/F mix screw back in functional condition.

If you decide to go the Mikuni VM36/38 route, Lancer sells a complete kit.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1338654578

When I had my old S40 with a Mikuni VM36, it was from Murray’s carbs.

His jet set up (tune) is very different than Lancer’s typical recommended set up.  I ended up rejetting using Lancer’s guidance for the main jet and it was much better.  Murray swears by his setup, but the main jet is too lean (#165).  Lancer recommends somewhere between 180-200 depending on exhaust, elevation, etc.  I rejetted to #200 and liked it better.

SurvivingPhilly has a Murray VM36 carb and he also rejetted his with the #200 and liked it better.

Murray can be a crusty old bird when you start asking questions or question his setup.  Defensive you might say.  I probably rubbed him the wrong way too.  He also makes the exposed length of his throttle cables about 1” too long and gets really defensive about that.  He ended up making 3 for me until I got one that was workable (it was the principle of the matter).  He only charged me for 1 (like $15).  That’s a good deal and he custom makes the cables (nice quality).  I was able to modify and shorten the other 2 cables he sent, so I have a couple backups now.

He’s reputable and stands behind his work.  Even if you gotta argue with him a bit.