My carburettor pictures

right side my carburettor

Bjorn wrote on 09/30/24 at 10:48:28:

that's the 1st thing I would do.

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yes

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correct

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looks like mine.

as far as kits go, they vary a lot because the jets change over the years and differ as well for countries.
I'd rather clean the original jets and use them if the jetting is correct.
if not, change only 1 at time to gage if it is correct.

Buying genuine Mikuni jets & parts is very important, it saves time, money and frustration, since other providers sell parts that may not be usable, many don’t even have any identification on them so you have no idea of what they are.  If they are marked, what do they mean ?  If you have difficulty jetting & tuning, and ask for help, how are we to help if we are unable to know what you’re working with.

If you decide you want a Mikuni VM carb, I put kits together, and that includes a custom throttle cable, plus more.

I dunno what you paid for the petcock, but if it isn't the real, OEM petcock, it's probably not going to solve your problems. Last time I got one it was about thirty dollars and that was a Long time ago.

I have cleaned a lot of stock carbs, and most often it can be done without the need to replace any parts.

The most common issue is the pilot jet is gummed up and blocked.....the center hole is very small and becomes clogged quickly.  When a bike is not run for a while (or has frequent times of sitting), the fuel evaporates in the float bowl and the pilot jet gets gummed up by the fuel residue.  Cleaning often requires you to poke something in there to get the pilot jet open - soaking or blowing on it alone doesn't get the jet open.....I use a guitar string as anything other kind of wire is often too large.

The float bowl gasket is pretty durable and often isn't damaged - but it would not hurt to have one on hand.  The TEV diaphragm is often very stiff and may work better with a newer replacement....you can get aftermarket ones much cheaper than the stock one.  The idle mixture screw can be a bugger to get out if the threads are corroded - it is not uncommon to strip the screwdriver slot trying to get it out......when that happens I have to drill the brass screw and use an "easy out" or "Torx" bit to remove it (then I clean up the threads with a tap and install a new mixture screw).

So.....sometimes the carb cleaning process is routine - and sometime that brass mixture screw can turn the job into an intense session that requires a good amount of tools and skill.

I did plug the vacum line.

Now I dismantled the carburettor, it did not look green or especially dirty inside, but the jets was not clean enough I beleive but difficult for me to see.

The slide look worn on the side: if you hold the carburettor upside down shall the slide spring be able to push it fully closed?
Maybe low power spring combined with worn slide is one of the problems.