I didn’t use the OEM connector with the Jardine muffler I had on a previous bike.  I used a reducer like below.  I can’t remember if I used 1,2,or 3 of the sleeves to fill the gap and get a snug connection.  You just have to figure out how much thickness you need to create a tight seal.  Think of the connector or reducer as a gasket.

If I recall correctly, I was able to slip the Jardine muffler up to about 1/4” of the stop ridge on the header.  It got stuck and I called it “good enough”.  At least I knew it was snug and virtually air tight seal.  Sorry, it’s been a while and I don’t recall taking pictures (I’ll double check my photos though).


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00230CC0G?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Yes, you stated that correctly.

I call it a stop ridge.  It probably has a different real name in the professional exhaust system community.

The muffler should slide up to the stop ridge.  It will get more difficult to slide it up there once you slip the connector or reducer over the portion of the header behind the stop ridge. The clamp is then fitted over the section where you’ve overlapped the connector/reducer, header and muffler.  Of course, get the clamp loosely fit over the pipe before you start putting everything together (you don’t want to open up and bend the clamp around everything after it’s already put together).  Once you put the connector/ruducer on there, it will get harder to slip that Jardine muffler all the way up to the stop ridge.  You want a tight fit, so you don’t have an exhaust leak there at the joint.  And I’m surprised too that there wasn’t already a reducer or connector on there (it probably had an exhaust leak there that you may not have been aware of).

There are adapters out there, but they can be hard to find the right size.  And one with a 10° bend in it would be ideal.  I haven’t explored taking it to a muffler shop and welding it all together with an adapter/connector/reducer (however it might best be done).  I think Lancer has gone the welded route and there’s some discussion in the Tech Section.

If you read the article in the Tech Section about the Harley Dyna muffler installation, you’ll see suggestions to fabricate a reducer/gasket from a tin soup can or green bean can, etc…. Creative gasket making to get a snug fit and prevent exhaust leaks at the joint.

You can cover the joint up with a heat shield if you don’t like looking at the joint.  I’m looking for one right now to install with the Harley dyna muffler.  That said, some people like the raw rugged look especially in the stripped down naked bobber community.  Side note - I don’t like heat wrap tape either - ugly in my opinion, traps heat in, and probably promotes corrosion.

I just welded mine together, I used a stainless steel connector that I welded to the header and to my Harley muffler. Stainless turns blue immediately, so I have a little heat shield over it.

My header pipe was all blue and rusty, so I polished it with a pipe sander, but it turned blue and rusty almost immediately. My bike is stored outside, so that's the price I pay, but for someone who has garage space, welding a stainless connector with stainless wire, this will look great and never rust.

I honestly dont remember about the angle. I welded the Harley muffler on back in 2016 when I first bought the bike, and if i remember correct both the muffler and the header had an extended flange on the end, so I did not even need a connector sleeve, I just welded one to another directly. I then wrapped the connection with heat wrap and put a chrome heat shield over it. I did not occur to me that the heat wrap captures water, and last year the connected rusted apart. I bought another Harley muffler for $50ish, a stainless steel connector sleeve, and welded the new muffler to the old header with the sleeve. Even if there is an angle you just cut and weld at whatever angle that is required, easy to make up for.

I was thinking of buying a new header pipe, but I just dont use the bike to justing spending the $.

Thanks Och.  I was wondering if welding it at an angle could correct the bend.  Good to know.

I’m probably buying a parts bike tomorrow.  If I do, and the header is in good shape, I’ll let you know.  I won’t want much for it especially for a fellow forum member that helped me out (or at least tried) with some o-rings (remember?)!  Shipping would probably be the bigger cost, but I recently shipped some Harley headers and it wasn’t too bad.