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Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it end? (Read 878 times)
Surviving Philly
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #120 - 08/31/24 at 20:08:01
 
Honestly, I really think the Barnett clutch pack is the culprit here. If I weren't so young and arrogant I should have listened to DBM when he said to go full OEM last time around. I figured I'd learn the hard way I suppose.

Going to open the bike up in the coming weeks to see what's going on but with this consistent pattern of behavior I'm assuming the pressure plate is worn again. If so, I'm going to pick up an OEM pack and replace the pressure plate, and possibly get this hub off Dave if there is wear there as well.

Other than the mikuni carb, this is a stock savage. Unless I'm just absolutely ruining these pressure plates through just God awful riding practice I can't imagine what's going on...

Thumper by the way I finally picked up that 200 main jet for the VM36. I'll let you know how that goes once I'm back on the road..... Boy do I miss the road.
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ThumperPaul
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #121 - 09/01/24 at 05:03:02
 
If I recall your bike correctly, you have some kind of aftermarket muffler as well.  The #200 main should work well.  In 20/20 hindsight, I think a #190 may have been a little crisper at higher rpm acceleration and maybe a little better gas mileage.  Either way, the Murray installed #165 with the e-clip in the 2nd grove is a pretty lean setup and gives up too much available power up top.

I have a complete clutch stashed away for a rainy day.  The fiber discs are almost worn down to the wear limit.  I don’t have the Clymer Manual in front of me, but the fiber discs only have like 0.1 - 0.2mm remaining before they hit the minimum thickness.  The fatter #1 fiber disc is the closest to hitting the wear limit (as I recall).  The main clutch components look good (running surfaces, measurements, etc).

Interestingly, Clymer doesn’t provide a spec for the steel discs.  This extra clutch I have measured right at 1.3mm for the steel discs.  Researching clutch kits on Amazon and E.Bay because OEM is so expensive, Caltric sells a kit (fibers, steels, springs) for like $38-$40.  They advertise the steels as being 1.6mm thick.  Without having OEM published specs (that I can find), I “assume” that 1.6mm matches stock new OEM thickness.  Assuming Caltric did their homework when designing the steels.

I know other people have installed the Barnett kit and are running without issues.  I hate to say it, but I think the installation orientation of the steel discs matters (cuz Barnett said so).  Maybe the “flat sides” bite more and the “rounded sides” slip/slide more.  Put 2 flats against a fiber disc and that fiber disc is probably getting bitten down on hard.  Meanwhile the fiber next to it with 2 rounded sides touching it, is slip sliding away.  (Just my uneducated arm chair engineering hypothesis and I could be wrong about which side of the steel bites/slips more, but they would have to behave differently since they are designed differently.). The fiber discs need a “biter” touching it on one side and a “slipper” touching it on the other side to create the optimal “even” friction on each disc.  When you take it apart, I’d be curious if some of the fiber discs are worn down and others are like new (or less worn down).

I hope this kinda makes sense.  I’m only on my 2nd cup of Sunday morning coffee.
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JOG
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #122 - 09/01/24 at 08:12:47
 

I've never inspected the clutch guts. But I read it and it made sense to me, and
I’m only on my 2nd cup of Sunday morning coffee.,too.
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Surviving Philly
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #123 - 09/03/24 at 13:18:51
 
Thumper

Solid f-ing call on the 200 main. The Murray set up was as you mentioned a 165.... And was on the lean side, for a long time. I'm going to change the needle position to your recommendation as well.

Appreciate you. Significant difference -- may lose MPG and I'm interested in checking the condition of the plug but I do have more power, that is a fact.

This week I'll open her up, check the condition of the clutch and likely throw the shorter rod in while I'm waiting on parts based on what's happening.
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ThumperPaul
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #124 - 09/03/24 at 13:51:30
 
Awesome!  I can’t take credit for that. I just followed Lancer’s guidance of somewhere between 180-200 with a better muffler and/or freer flowing intake.
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Surviving Philly
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #125 - 09/03/24 at 19:11:01
 
To be honest it actually feels like a different bike. I think the main kicks in after about 1/2 throttle pull-- I went into a roundabout and opened it up and  goosed it enough almost  to brake traction... Couldn't believe it. This is despite the clutch slip.
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ThumperPaul
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #126 - 09/05/24 at 05:23:51
 
Surviving Philly wrote on 09/03/24 at 19:11:01:
To be honest it actually feels like a different bike. I think the main kicks in after about 1/2 throttle pull-- I went into a roundabout and opened it up and  goosed it enough almost  to brake traction... Couldn't believe it. This is despite the clutch slip.


Hell yeah!  Nice!  Sounds like you should leave the e-clip where it is!  If you didn’t change the position, Murray had it in the 2nd groove from the top (1 groove leaner from the 3rd middle groove).  That’s where I left it.  Seems to pair well with the 200 main for mid-throttle performance.  Lancer provided guidance probably more times than he can count, and he suggested the middle groove but also suggested 2nd groove at one point.  I never tried the middle groove.  The 2nd groove with the 200 main was good and I left it there.  I compared all the parts (Jet sizes, air bleeds, needle types, etc) in Lancer’s VM36 setup to Murray’s setup and the only differences were:

Lancer: Main #180-200, Pilot #20, e-clip 3rd groove (his primary recommendation)

Murray: Main #165, Pilot #28, e-clip 2nd groove

I never tried to figure out the big difference in pilot jets.  The 28 worked well and it didn’t have to be set to the leanest air/fuel mix screw setting.  I just left the 28 in there.

At WOT, feeding as much fuel as possible in there, the sum of the jets (main + pilot) yields: Lancer: 200-220. Murray: 193.  So with the 200 main and 28 pilot, you went from 193 (Murray setup) to 228 (mix/match setup, the Philly cheesesteak with whizz).  This is what got me thinking that a #190 main might be more appropriate (total would be 190+28=218).

Maybe you need to quit doing drag race starts and wheelies and quit dumping the clutch!  LOL  Grin  Leave frying clutches and breaking 5-speed transmissions to DBM!
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Surviving Philly
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #127 - 09/06/24 at 10:50:55
 
All good points thumper


Does anyone happen to know what the stack height of the pack should be with a fresh stock clutch? I have a nice micrometer that might be able to provide some insights here.
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ThumperPaul
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #128 - 09/06/24 at 15:47:36
 
Try 26mm fully compressed.

5 friction 2.9mm
1 friction 3.5mm
5 steel 1.6mm

That’s the math.  I measured it once on a used clutch but I can’t remember the exact number but something like 24.5mm.
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #129 - 09/06/24 at 18:03:39
 
Philly, I provided all that info previously.  I think you should review the vids I posted in replies #82 & #91 before you dig into it.  You need to figure out what is preventing your clutch from engaging fully.  It sure seems to me that your pushrod is too long.  Excessive lost motion in your release cam is fooling you into thinking the clutch has correct free play.
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Surviving Philly
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #130 - 09/06/24 at 20:37:02
 
Thanks DBM I'll watch those vids again.

I think you're right about the pushrod. I think the Barnett kit is a shorter stack height than stock and the shortest rod should be used.
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #131 - 09/07/24 at 02:29:38
 
The Barnett stack height should be the same as the stock stack height.  I suspect that is no longer the case on your bike since the clutch has been slipping.

When you get it apart, measure everything (steels, fibers, pushrod, spring installed height, spring free length, etc.).
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Surviving Philly
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #132 - 09/07/24 at 11:05:42
 
So,

I feel like a huge idiot. Just realized my last oil change right before I started noticing the clutch slip I used rotella T-4 10w-30.... It's JSAO rated but not MA/MA2.

My current thought is this burned the clutch out due to friction loss.....
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #133 - 09/07/24 at 16:08:13
 
Nope.  Listen to DBM.  This isn't rocket science.  You have been overlooking something and when you figure it out, you'll feel like an idiot.*  lol

*It's happened to all of us at some point and you're not an idiot.  But you'll feel like one.
Smiley
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Surviving Philly
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Re: Clutches, clutches, clutches. Where does it en
Reply #134 - 09/09/24 at 14:33:51
 
I contacted Barnett -- the steel plates are 1.6mm which is the same as stock -- the friction plates are 3mm exactly friction pad to friction pad. if the stock plates are 2.5-2.6 MM stock, that means that the Barnett pack is significantly thicker.

Not sure what the implications of this are regarding the pushrods, but its something to think about.

I had enough time today to put the shorter rod in. I'm back to that issue where when the clutch is out, I can hear the pressure plate bolts hitting the actuating arm because the entire pack has moved to the right due to pressure plate wear.

When I pick up a new pressure plate, hub and clutch pack i'll do the teardown and testing that DBM recommened previously in the thread.
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