Push the rubber bushing out with the bolt still inside the bushing.

Dave wrote on 01/27/24 at 12:30:06:


I tried.  The connector is too long and the whole thing comes into contact with the shaft holder in the housing.

That's kinda what I thought.  Poke around with the ohm setting on the multimeter.  I don't see the sealant you're talking about.

I'll clean up the commutators too.  I am interested to see if it can be rejuvenated.

Haha Dave.  I cleaned mine up and put it back together this morning.  No luck.  The internal winding must be fried.  Starter got warm, but nothing.  The gear/shaft moves freely by hand.

Yeah, I ended up using 4 screws to wedge and prop open the coil springs and get it back together.

It's a door stopper now, Mike.  Lol.  Even if I could figure out how to correctly check it for resistance, I can't fix it.  I did poke around with the multimeter, but I couldn't tell what I was really doing.  I'm done with it.  Maybe I can get a $10 core charge return from AutoZone for it.

Couple of things.

First and foremost, when you replace the starter, make sure the o-ring fits tight when you push it back in, or you will have an oil leak. But you already know this from the previous threads.

That being said, there is something weird going on between the battery/starter dying. It happened to me 2-3 years ago - it was a hot summer day and I went to make a quick errands run on the bike. It started just fine without any signs of weak battery. I finished my errands, and as I was sitting at a red light the bike suddenly died completely. No lights, no crank, no signs of life at all.

Got it over to the shop, the first thing the guy tested was the battery and it was completely dead and would not take a charge. And it was a quality Yuasa AGM battery, only about 2 years old at that time, very strange for it to die suddenly the way it did.

First order of business, got the battery replaced before we could diagnose everything else. Next, turned out to be a fried starter. At that time, the bike had maybe 3k on the clock, so also weird for it to fail.

This leads me to believe there is some sort of a pattern, especially that your issue is similar. I'm thinking maybe the battery failed internally, and created a voltage spike that fried the starter - but then the starter wasn't even being engaged when the bike died.

I also needed the left hand switch assembly replaced, as one of my front turn signals wasn't working, and the headlamp would not switch from low to high beam. They were all working just fine before the incident.

interesting, there have been a number of starter stuck on cases due to a stuck relay.  most wouldn't notice a starter continuously running and that would drain a battery and tax the charging system.