Big shout out to Verslagen!!  Exceptional craftsmanship, fast turnaround, and personalization!  Thank you.

I installed it in the 2nd hole, but it’s a pretty tight fight.  The plunger really didn't move when I removed the piece of zip tie.  I'm right at the minimum extension for getting it in the 2nd hole.  The rear cam chain guide is pressed against the cam chain pretty tight with no wiggle room.  Is this okay?  Does it need a little wiggle room or is it just restoring some of the bow in the rear cam chain guide? 

I'd prefer not to put it in the first hole only to have to move in a month or so.

Anyway, really impressed with the quality of work!  Thanks again Verslagen!

ThumperPaul wrote on 01/02/24 at 13:15:39:


I recently replaced a tensioner for a customer.  Took the measurement then removed the tensioner, then decided to take a pic with it installed.  Couldn't get it to the same measurement, it was very tight, tighter than you'll ever get it.

So I think it's ok.

But you could push the pawl to release and it may go in a bit.

This comment isn't intended to turn this thread into a long affair - but some of us have installed a bit lighter springs so that the tensioner is not so aggressive.  When the spring pushes the plunger out enough for the pawl to catch a new tooth - the chain can get really tight as the engine gets up to operating temps.

Not afraid of some questions - I just didn't want to derail your thread too far away from what you intended.

For a lighter spring I really have no suggestions on where to get it - the stuff in the hardware stores can work if you get one that is not real flimsy.

Look for one about 1/2 the force of the stock one.

My Verslagen Tensioner is stock.  

Someday, I'll get my Verslagen Head Plug installed.  The OEM unit I installed when I got the bike has been leaking for a few years now.  
 

zevenenergie wrote on 01/04/24 at 11:03:49:


Having just been in to replace a tensioner, I think opposite of Dave, it's really tight when cold and flips over to a new tooth when hot.

But to answer your question, yes anything could help.  But I don't think rubber would be the best fix or there's enough room to put enough to make it work.
I did slot the hole and put in a spring to take up the slack but it's a lot of precise work, search keywork verjavy.  
Curent offering is VerslavyOT in the link below.

verslagen1 wrote on 01/04/24 at 12:43:00:


I could be wrong.....my reasoning was that the aluminum cylinder and head expand more than the steel cam chain - but I really don't know for sure.  I have never dismantled a "hot" engine to see!

The goal of the lighter spring however is to just slow down how soon the tensioner pawl grabs a new tooth.

Don't intend to derail here -- regarding the chain guide, which we know bends (If I'm remembering correctly) significantly before the chain actually wears out of spec -- does replacing this guide necessitate removing the head? Or is it able to drop in with the valve cover removed?