I’ve read OldFeller’s and DragBikeMike’s posts about beefing up the clutch and/or returning it to good working condition.  Good stuff, but it did leave some questions and seeming debate.

Upgrading the cam release to a hardened steel Sneeze cam release sounds like a no-brainer upgrade to keep you riding instead of pushing the bike out in the middle of no where.

Push Rod Length - Massive confusion and I can’t find a straight clear answer (I probably have a reading comprehension problem and like short simple answers ).  When do you need the short, medium, or long version of the push rod?

1) if the clutch plates have worn down but are still within service limits, does a longer or shorter rod compensate (assuming factory installed is the medium length???)?

2) if you install a Sneeze cam release, how does this affect the answer to #1, and/or how do you decide which push rod length is best?

3) will heavier clutch springs compensate for thinning aging clutch plates?  Would a washer under each stock spring help compensate?  Would a set of Barnett springs be worth the money without swapping out the clutch plates?

I’m basically looking for the budget-minded way to extend the life of the clutch, ensure reliability, and prevent slipping under WOT.  A poor man’s beef up or return to like-new performance.  I don’t need the thing to deal with 50hp, but 40hp down the road maybe.

"2) if you install a Sneeze cam release, how does this affect the answer to #1, and/or how do you decide which push rod length is best?"

You use the marks on the engine case.  Install everything including the clutch cover and clutch cover gasket.  Tighten up the hardware.  Raise the lever on the clutch cover by hand to take up all the slack in the release mechanism.  Look at where the clutch lever on the clutch cover lines up with the marks on the engine case.  If the lever is not centered between the two marks it needs a different pushrod.  Too high = need longer rod.  Too low = need shorter rod.

A note about the Barnett springs; I installed them in my clutch years ago with stock plates ( checked to insure within specs) and have had no issues with the clutch,  no slippage.  I still have the stock release cam and it has not failed to date.  I do have the new mod version by Sneeze on hand just in case it’s needed, or when I pull the side cover next time.
Keep in mind that I’ve not ran my engine really hard for quite some time, with no 1/4 mile or 0-60 runs from a standing start, just going WOT from 2nd or 3rd gear up to about 80-85.  
It’s entirely possible that I just have not stressed it enough to cause that part failure.

Very informative gentlemen. Thanks.

And thanks to you also ThumperPaul, these were questions I also had since my clutch is slipping under hard acceleration. And I don't like it.

If the bike is in neutral - the clutch is not moving when you push the bike.  In neutral the only transmission shaft that is turning when you roll the bike is the rear one the belt pulley is attached to (output shaft).....the shaft the clutch is attached to does not turn when you are pushing the bike in neutral (input shaft).

'IF" you put the bike in a gear and then pull in the clutch lever....then you will be rotating the clutch basket and get drag from the clutch.

If you are finding the bike hard to push when the bike is in neutral - then either the front or rear wheel is dragging for some reason.  Lift up the bike one end at a time and see if the wheels rotate easily.

The torque on the rear axle should not cause the wheel to turn hard.  The torque tightens up the inner race and spacers......it should not put stress on the outer races or balls in the bearings.

Is there a bit of free play/slack in the brake pedal/cable so that the rear brake is not dragging?  If you moved the axle backward without adjusting the brake.......the free play in the brake may be gone.

Thanks for the additional info of your experience before you replaced with the Sneeze cam.  Very helpful.

Lancer, can you please clarify what you mean?