I am starting to like the shop vac/small tube idea.

The tube/hose should be just large enough to fit down the spark plug hole to get the most grip....however smaller hoses will give you a bit more room to move around.

Shove the hose down the spark plug hole until it touches the cylinder wall, then move the piston up until it touches the tube.....now all you need to do is get the wood dowel lined up with the tube.  You can shove a nylon zip tie or something similar down the hole and wiggle it around to try and move the dowel into position.  (That is why I suggested leaning the bike to the right side so the dowel move downhill inline with the spark plug hole).

Little sucker.

Hey Serowbot.  I stole it from my wife!  Then bought her a new one for her birthday!  Now me and the old Oreck sleep in the garage together with a case of cheap Bush beer!  Something has to work today, or I’m using lighter fluid and fire!

How are things going?
Dit you brake free already?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f4Mc-NYPHaQ

Total frustration!  I optimistically put everything back together except for the saddle, tank, and a couple other items (waiting for a decomp set-up to arrive from Verslagen and a starter o-ring from Och - thanks guys!).

I thought about it some more. Wood floats. So if you place the piston at TDC when all valves are closed and you fill the combustion chamber with a  liquid, the dowel will float in front of the spark plug hole.



If you then use the vacuum cleaner to suck the dowel out, do not use flammable liquid because then your vacuum cleaner will explode.

What is the approximate size of the broken piece (diameter x length)?

For a vacuum cleaner to work you will need flow.  The spark plug hole will not permit sufficient flow.  You need valves open to have any chance of sucking the piece out.  But the valves need to be open with the piston very near to top dead center (TDC).  You can achieve the required condition by jacking valves open with the adjustment screws, but you must not rotate the engine with the valves jacked open.  DO NOT ROTATE ENGINE WITH VALVES JACKED OPEN.

Position your engine at TDC on the compression stroke.  Make sure both rocker arms move right & left to verify that you are on the compression stroke. Then rotate the engine just enough to lower the piston about 1/8" down from TDC.

Use the left-hand intake valve adjuster to jack open the left-hand intake valve.  DO NOT ROTATE ENGINE WITH VALVES JACKED OPEN.  You will be able to open the valve about 8.5mm.  It will look like this.

You should now have a shot at sucking the remnant out with a vacuum, but it will depend on the size of the wooden piece.  The intake valves are bigger so you want to suck from the intake side.  You will probably be able to look into the cylinder through the open valves.  That assumes you have the carb and exhaust header removed (that would be beneficial if you haven't already done it).  You also want the spark plug hole open to achieve the highest airflow possible.  You might also be able to open the left-hand exhaust valve a bit too to enhance air flow.

You want to use a canister vacuum so you can retrieve the piece to verify removal and make sure there aren't several pieces in there....and....of course post a picture so we can all see.

DO NOT ROTATE ENGINE WITH VALVES JACKED OPEN.

Regardless of results (success or failure).  Get those adjuster screws backed off before you rotate the engine.  Of course you must adjust your valves before any attempt to run the engine.