I am not sure what will happen if you put the valves back into adjustment and hit the starter button.......I believe the piston and dowel will come to an abrupt stop as the piston approaches TDC - you won't get even 1 revolution of the crank.

There is only the thickness of three dimes between the top of the piston and the flat surface of the head....I suspect that when the piston heads up on a compression stroke the wood will prevent the piston from going over TDC.  I don't believe the starter has enough power to bend or break anything....it will just come to a sudden stop.  "IF" the piston is headed upward on the exhaust stroke - there is a chance the wood could hit the exhaust valves as the piston and wood dowel head upward.  Once again the piston and dowel will come to a stop - but there is a chance the momentum and starter have enough inertia to bend a valve and damage the rocker and/or cam.

What is your mechanical ability to correct this?  The Savage is not a difficult engine to work on and a manual is a must - however there are a lot of parts and it is easy to mistakenly turn the crankshaft nut the wrong way, lose the dowel that drives the oil pump, install the oil filter backwards, strip the head cover threads, etc.  If you have never had an engine apart before......I am not sure that an upper end removal and replacement on the Savage is the place to start.

Folks on this forum can help - but ultimately you are the one who has to get it done.

Thanks Dave.  You have outlined all of my concerns and what would probably happen if I hit the happy button.  I am by no means an engine mechanic.  I can do and will attempt most tuning items and ancillary things (brakes, chains, oil, filters, cables, etc).  The last time I kinda opened an engine was in 1980 on my 1974 Trans Am.  I was 16, first car, and my grandfather and I replaced the timing chain (it didn’t exactly go smoothly, but we ultimately got it right without destroying the engine). I have a car mechanic friend that has offered to help.  His experience with bikes is limited, but he’s younger, braver, better memory and eyesight than me.

Will try to do this in the frame.  I’ve read DBM’s and Oldfeller’s posts and got a headache but they are very helpful.

I need to compile a list of stuff needed:

1) head gasket
2) clutch side engine cover gasket
3) plug cap seal
3a) will regular Permatex Ultra Black work?  Or what flavor do I need?
4) Verslagen cam chain tensioner (do it while I’m in there)
5) Do I need new O-rings somewhere (which ones)?
6) Loctite?  What flavor and which bolts/studs get it
7) some kind of stud extraction tool like DBM made or buy one.  I guess the double-nut trick won’t work
8) exhaust gasket (what size if I just buy generic off Amazon or somewhere)
8) What else?

Pre-Steps
1) roll Woody into the driveway (or yard), apply engine degreaser to the head and work area (with spark plug in and everything buttoned up like intake and valve check covers), clean up as best as possible, hit it again with brake parts cleaner.  Is it safe to carefully use a pressure washer with a standard tip (not the cut your toe off tip).  Or just use a regular hose and sprayer attachment?
2) remove exhaust
3) drain oil

Clarification/Corrections: I feel like the Clymer manual could be my friend and worst enemy at the same time.  Pics and discussions on this forum seem better and more trustworthy.  

1) is Clymer wrong throughout about rotating “clockwise”?  Everything should be counterclockwise, dirrection the bike rolls forward, right?

2) what else do they make harder than it should be?

What is the valve cover gasket made of (is it reusable)?  Might it be possible to raise the head about 1" while it's still trapped on the studs, reach into the gap with my sausage fingers and grab the wood, and then bolt it back together without a new gasket?   Obviously trying to avoid removing the studs and/or taking the engine out of the frame.

I’m trying to wrap my head around all this and will also talk to my mechanic friend today.  Thanks!

Thanks Dave.

Then use a long-nose vicegrip to pinch the nut onto the stud.  You have to really grab that nut tight and pinch it ultra-hard onto the portion of the stud that protrudes above the cylinder head.

This would be the type of vicegrip required.

Thanks Mike.  Yes, I read your post and saw your cut-nut and other extractor gadget (reminded me of a flywheel puller tool).  Is there not an extractor tool (socket) that already exists and can be bought?

Removing the right rear stud is a must (okay, got it).  Can the head be lifted off with the other 3 studs still in place?  Can the head clear the frame especially at the left rear stud still in place?  I’m guessing the left rear stud should come out too for ease of reassembly.

Vacuuming out the stud holes.  Have not thought about that…. Does 100% have to be cleared out?  When reinstalling the studs, I’m guessing they get some loctite?  I haven’t read that far ahead.

Tips for timing chain?  I think I read in Clymer about rotating the engine clockwise??  My trust in the Clymer manual is about nil.

Thanks Mike.  This just keeps getting better.  Pulling the clutch to remove the rear cam chain guide.  I guess I missed that part of the surgery.

Looking at stud extractors; they all seem big and may not work in close quarters.  That's my guess as to why they aren't suggested somewhere.

I might, but I don't feel like dealing with the dang boat anchor.