What parts do you need for your VM ?

This kit appears to be genuine.  I ended up buying one of the $10 cheapo kits.  Like you, I wanted it just in case and mostly for the float bowl gasket and fuel float valve.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/155812598186?epid=14063129245&hash=item24472791aa:g:...

Thanks everyone,

I was able to find a couple resources for future reference:

http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/mikuni-vm36-4-vm38-9-carb-rebuild-kit.html

http://www.nichecycle.com/ncs/catalogsearch/result/?q=Vm36

Spammy I can confirm there aren't o-rings for the air or idle screw. This carb is actually very, very simple/easy to tear down and put back together -- another reason it's so great. Out of impatience I decided to just reuse my o-rings and gaskets, they didn't seem in bad shape, the carb was actually really clean in general but that pilot jet is so small I can imagine maybe some muck might have been causing my weird idling issues.

Following... My cheapo rebuild kit and set of knockoff main jets arrived yesterday.  Thanks for all tips here.  I didn’t buy any slow jets and will just clean up whatever is in there for now.  The short video of the bike running about a month ago before I bought the bike seemed to show it was idling ok.  Interested to see if I find a #20 or something else in there.

Appreciate the info about no O-rings.  And to put extra effort into cleaning out all the tiny passages.  I have a bad habit of getting in a hurry on that step (note to self, do it right the first time!).

Hey SurvivingPhilly.

Yep, the pin holding the float ‘rest’ was in there real good.  Gently put the carb in a bench vise and then gently tapped it out with a small hand allen wrench and a couple light taps of a hammer.

I did end up scoring the top of the pilot jet.  Not terrible, and re-usable.  I barely got my go-to slot screwdriver in there.  I don’t have a JIS that small.  The JIS of a Phillips #2 is a must have for a lot of parts on these bikes (real handy getting the float bowl screws in and out without jacking up the screw head)!

I think the cheap kit worked.  The float valve has a smaller bore than stock.  A bit concerning and interested to see how it does.

Interesting - this project bike I’m working on came with a Murray’s carb on it.  So I’m working on the exact same carb and set up. My wife and I spent 15 minutes trying to read the main jet size and we think we read #165.  It definitely doesn’t say 195 or 200.  It might say 185….  If the 165 is right, it is obviously a lot smaller than what Lancer recommends at around #200.  I dropped in a 200 on Lancer’s guidance.  The slow jet was totally unmarked or disappeared, but whatever it is is now clean.  We’ll see what happens if I ever get this thing ready to crank and run.  Fighting numerous issues.

I agree that the intake tube could be about 3/8" longer, but it still seals at both ends.  The last Savage I swapped carbs on, I installed a cheap PWK40 ebay special.  I used a 2" ID "turbo" tube.  It came in 8" length and I cut it down to a nice snug fit.  I didn't measure the OD of air intake venturi side of the Mikuni VM36.  The 2" might be a bit too big, but that's the idea.

If I get the f-in wood out of my cylinder, maybe I can fire this bike up for the 1st time since buying this project.  A #200 main jet will have to do for starters.  I've got an aftermarket open exhaust too - some un-named thing that came on the bike.  

I've managed to turn what should have been a fairly simple "clean it up and get it running" into a total nightmare....  Argh!!  It's got a nice clean rejetted carb now though....

That’s right!  I used 2.5” ID.  Found the leftover piece in the garage after some digging.  I’ll send a pic once I resize it to the website’s limit.  The nice thing is that it also fits almost perfectly on the air box end as well.  Yup, a couple worm gears does the trick beautifully!