And thanks as well vers so it having exposed wires as long as it works when cranking engine that wouldn’t be a cause?

And so at this point what do I have left to check off before I just assume igniter and go for it do I need to worry about regulator rectifier? Sorry if I sound newbie, I am one and everything I know thus far is what I’ve picked up skimming forums and reading the clymer for this bike as I slowly try and piece together what it could be and work on it in my garage.

Just a normal guy tryna get into cruising.

I spliced your old thread so we can see the history.

And you might add your location, someone maybe able to help you out.

This Ignitor Unit pin reading data is right out of the factory service manual.  It's for the old 9-pin unit.  The manual says they are "approximate readings".

The manual goes on to say:

"Use the Suzuki pocket tester, bring the + probe and the - probe into contact with each lead wire of the ignitor unit, check for continuity and measure the resistance value.  When the continuity and resistance values are as shown in the following table, it can be judged that the ignitor unit is normal."

The manual has a caution note:

"As capacitors, diodes, etc. are used inside this ignitor unit, the resistance values will differ when an ohmmeter other than the Suzuki pocket tester is used."

The caution note seems like it's a CYA feature, but I guess their pocket tester could be special.  At any rate, the table may be useful to you.  Seems to me that you should be able to learn something from the table.  Like if pin to pin readings were infinity where they are supposed to have relatively low resistance, or if they were very low resistance when the table shows they should have high resistance.

Hope it helps.  Good luck.