Hey savages,

Just before a 70 mile return home yesterday, I noticed an un-rythmic tapping/clacking coming from the clutch side of the motor -- slightly high pitched, frequent but not in tune with RPMS.

my first thought obviously is the tensioner -- having no alternatives and an angry wife at home, I made a sign of the cross at hit the highway. No issues. Smooth ride (as far as south eastern pa roads allow, anyway).

Since returning home, I'm nervous about cranking the motor over. I could not feel a knock from the clutch cover itself, I thought it could be possible there is an exaust leak or maybe a loose valve, as the sound isn't EXACTLY localized without a stethoscope. It doesn't look like either of those are the issue (checked clearances today, seemed fine. No leaks. Performance wise I'm good.)

Obviously, I've got to pull that cover and see the condition of the tensioner. Upon my last check earlier this summer it was out about 18-19mm, slightly bowed, but no noise. I'm assuming the thing is still intact in there, otherwise I can't imagine I would have made it home for the 70 mile trip back.

Anyway here's what I'm curious about:

1) will the tensioner clatter while still together if the hole is ovaled?

2) I know the recommended solution is to check the chain for any stuff links, then install the verslavvy. Is it really not recommended to replace the chain also?

3) with the verslavvy installed, will the additional length allow the motor to eventually skip time with enough chain slack and brick the motor?

4) what is the recommended interval for chain replacement with the modified tensioner?

Local mechanic is quoting $400 in labor for the chain replacement. I would attempt this one in my friends garage but don't want to run it to his place (I can push it to the local mechanic).

Looks like the verslavvy currently runs around $200.

What would the community suggest here?

Thanks

Thanks Vers, Appreciate your insights.

I'll PM about the tensioner and hope to put an order in soon.

Surviving Philly wrote on 08/26/23 at 10:08:33:


no, short trips = short mileage... less than 10k miles
long trips = long mileage... greater than 30k miles

for an unmodified tensioner.
and double that for a modified tensioner after using the 2nd hole.

My experience with cam chain wear indicates that they really don't wear much.  I've got 55K on the clock and the chain still isn't even close to the wear limit (128.9 mm or 5.070" over 21 pins).  I think the rear chain guide relaxes and results in a loose chain.  You should base your chain replacement on the wear limit, not an arbitrary mileage number.  

This old post provides some background info.

http://suzukisavage.com/cgi-bin/YaBB.pl?num=1593671973/0#14

Surviving Philly wrote on 08/28/23 at 11:25:37:


you're welcome.

you can get the rear guide out w/out pulling the head but it will take some effort.
I think you'll need to pull the clutch, remove the gear to get enough chain slack to pull it down.
It can be difficult as the pivot end of the guide can get hung up on the head.

Alright,

A few things here.

I just threw the new verslavvy in. I hope this post can serve as a reference for future enthusiasts.

For starters, I've had this bike going on two years, from 3.5k to AROUND 20k. (not positive because of no odometer on mine. suspect it's over 20K)

I replaced my clutch at 10k miles, and the stock tensioner was about 18mm out. This was like last October, roughly. I use this bike as a year round all weather daily diver, a mix of short/long trips (mostly short city traffic, i'm a social worker for the homeless/mentally ill so i'm hoping on and off the bike all day meeting different people for different reasons.)

Since I got the bike, I've had a very loud, very pronounced typewriter type engine noise, that, eventually, developed into a very loud typewriter noise along with a distinct, metallic PING, that was infrequent, and did not match RPMs/valve timing.

You can see on this thread that I did check my valve clearances and they were within spec.

As soon as I fired the bike up after throwing the tensioner in, the first thing i noticed was how QUIET it was -- the metallic ping, the reason for me going down this rabbit hole, was gone--- but so was a lot of the loud typewriter chugging type noise I always thought was normal.

The hole on my tensioner is ovaled, pretty severely, and the tensioner was DEFINETLY on it's last legs. Sine getting the bike I have been changing the oil literally every 2000 miles, if not sooner, along with new filters. I have had a couple over heating issues in the past, due to exuast leaks and and lean conditions.

I installed my modified tensioner on the second (new) hole, and it's about half way bottomed out. Timing chain is definetly in my near future. (or, according to info on this threat, maybe just the guides, who knows.)

Thank you to Vers and DBM for all your input, wisdom and vers for the part. Very good purchase. Just shocked. Time to get drunk.

EDIT: Vers do you want the used tensioner? I'll send it out if so. Pluber is still good as far as I can tell.