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Rear bottoming out. (Read 21 times)
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Rear bottoming out.
05/11/23 at 10:03:39
 
About a month ago I was working on relocating my license plate, and I noticed the wires inside the fender were badly stripped from getting in contact with the rear tire.

I figured it must have been bottoming out when I used to ride two up - my 240lbs + my wife give or take 180lbs. I reinsulated all the wires, and adjusted the "preload?" on the rear shocks to the firmest setting.

The ride is now substantially harsher, but I figured if it wont bottom out I'll just deal with it. However, I looked under the fender and one of the wires is already showing signs of stripping, which means that it is still bottoming out.

I guess it doesn't help that my fat ass is 240lbs and I ride way back on the seat. I am also running a slightly oversized rear tire, 140/9015 instead of 140/80/15.

What would be a good remedy for the situation? I am not so much concerned about bottoming out as much as I'm concerned over stripping the wires and potentially causing a short. I was thinking of maybe welding a plate into the fender to protect the wires, but if there is a more proper way to address it, I would rather do that.

Also, I am trying to understand what exactly happens when I adjust the shocks. Is it the shock itself that gets firmer, or is it just merely putting slight compression onto the spring so that it has less overall travel and feels firmer?

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DragBikeMike
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Re: Rear bottoming out.
Reply #1 - 05/11/23 at 12:15:49
 
Adjusting the shock changes the spring preload but it does not change the travel.  The rubber bumper around the shock absorber shaft is a stop.  That bumper limits travel.  

My experience with the stock shock absorbers, and also Progressive shocks, is that they bottom out when I hit potholes and rough areas.  That's even with heavier springs (115/155).  I suspect that is normal, but that bottoming occurs with only me atop the beast.  I never carry passengers.  I weigh about 195.

I just did a quick check of my tail light wiring.  Zero evidence of rubbing.  I have been running the Dunlop 140/90-15 and currently have a stock 140/80-15 IRC.  The tires have never touched those wires.

So, your tire shouldn't touch the wires unless something isn't right.  I suspect that when you are ridding two up the thing is probably always bottoming out, but the bumpers (stops) should limit travel and prevent the tire from contacting the wires.

You might wanna inspect the rubber bumpers on your shafts to verify that they are still there.  You also should inspect the fender and mounts to make sure that it's not deformed, loose, cracked, etc.  I don't think your tire should be contacting those wires.

This shows a rear shock bumper/stop on a Progressive shock absorber.  I have pushed the bumper down until it touches the shock body.  It can be easily inspected once it has been pushed down.  On a stock shock absorber, it is not easy to move the bumper down for inspection.  It will most likely be stuck in the uppermost position and nested in the chrome cover at the top of the shock.  You will have to figure out a way to move the bumper down for inspection.
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Shock_Bumper_Stop_Progressive.jpg

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verslagen1
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Re: Rear bottoming out.
Reply #2 - 05/11/23 at 12:20:25
 
stock shocks have about 1/2" less travel than 11" shocks
and are made for... how can I say... not pudgy americans.
find yourself a set of intruder shocks, they are taller and offer a nice compression range for us
for myself (similar pudgy american), I have them set on the lowest setting
and I can usually sit thru most road irregularities.
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