I did an inspection of the cam chain tensioner.  It was fine.

I checked valve clearance.  It was .005” to .007”.  Not a problem IMO.

Visual inspection of the flywheel nut indicated that all was normal.  Don’t be fooled by a nut that looks tight and can’t be rotated with your fingers. The nut was loose.  I estimate it took no more than 10 ft-lbs to move the nut (probably less).

I’m not suggesting that every loose flywheel will sound exactly the same.  Mine still had some tension being applied by the Bellville Washer.  If it had continued to loosen, the noise probably would have changed.  But the YouTube vid should give you an idea what to expect.

Hope this helps some of you.

Good point JOG. I see no problem using loctite on that nut. I’m looking at the location , no problem using a small torch to heat it when it’s got to come off. Loctite is just glorified candle wax heat it and it becomes liquid again !

Little stuff like that can be the difference between winning it quickly and cleanly
And struggling.

Yup , I look ahead and make sure it’s a place I can use a torch for heat , a place free of wiring , seals , etc.  Then glue it with the blue.

After the mess I had with the failed transmission and excessive crankshaft runout, I got serious about making every effort to limit any sort of bending or twisting moments on the crank.  I ordered a 46mm deep socket to give me a good solid fit on the nut.  Then I put that socket in the lathe and faced off the chamfer to provide maximum engagement with that thin nut (some folks refer to the engagement as “purchase”).  Oooooooo!  These sockets are tough, but where there’s a will there’s a way.

Sneezy, I changed direction on the mini flywheel.  After hours of fiddling with my Big Bore 4-Speed project, I really couldn’t find any connection between the 3-inch flywheel and the bearing bore fretting.  It pretty much boiled down to the excessive crank runout.  So, when this loose flywheel reared it’s ugly head, I had to take a second look.

Seems to me that when you bump up the squeeze two points, you increase crankshaft angular velocity on the power stroke, and decrease crankshaft angular velocity on the compression stroke.  Of course, there’s a difference in the angular velocity on the power and compression strokes on the stock engine too, but that difference is probably much greater on the high compression motor.  Throw in the DR cam with it’s earlier closing intake valve and the spread goes up a bit more.

I’m thinkin that the continuous change in angular velocity gets the heavy flywheel rockin back & forth within the clearance limits of the splines.  That overcomes the torque eventually and things get loose.  Hey, it lasted 8000+ miles before it manifested in a rattle.

I installed the mini-wheel.  This clamping tool ensures that I can achieve the correct torque without bending or twisting on the crank.  The mini-wheel has much less inertia and isn’t gonna work that nut loose (I think).