Your gizmo is right clever, solid answer, if I get able to build a bike, I might build something like that.
Watching a YouTube some months ago I saw a guy who did woodwork all the time and he had been totally sold on TiteBond. It's pretty easy to believe that if a company creates a product and they have
The Original
TiteBond II
TiteBond III
thinking TiteBond III must surely be the best option. According to that guy, it's a
NotSoFast moment.

Something to be aware of



Utter failure of Titebond III
davidmeiland | Posted in General Discussion on January 16, 2006 02:30am
I glued up 13 deck post wraps out of 1x clear Western red cedar. 2 pcs 3/4 x 3-9/16 x 36, 2 pieces 3/4 x 5-1/16 x 36, glued up into square ‘tubes’ that slide down around 4×4 posts. Four biscuits per glueline. All the cedar came to me KD and has been stored dry in the barn for 6 months. It measured an average of about 14% MC right before glue-up, which was done indoors in heated space. The materials all stayed indoors overnight before and after being glued up. The glue was bought brand new at my lumber yard the day before the job.

As far as the workmanship goes, I’ve done hundreds and hundreds of glue-ups in my life, everything from a chess board I made in junior high woodshop to large and complex cabinets that took three guys to get together. All of the joints in this case were clean, correctly clamped, the right amount of glue and the right amount of squeeze-out. Everything looked perfect when I sanded it out.

After just a few days outdoors some of the joints are completely open, and others are on their way. About half still seem perfectly tight. I’m part way thru fabricating and installing the rail sections between the posts. I’m obviously going to have to take the whole thing back apart, salvage what lumber I can, buy a fair amount of new stuff, and start over. Gorilla Glue this time

There’s nothing on the Titebond web site about not using this glue with cedar. Perhaps I got a bad batch or maybe it was frozen on the way to the lumberyard.

Hope that helps someone avoid a

WTF Is THIS?
Moment

to check oil level, sit in a chair, one hand on the bike holding it level, other hand holding a mirror at sight glass level. Saves my knees!
Cheers!  

Just make sure the front wheel is in a chock!
Needed this as my knees are 78 years old!
Cheers!  

I feel like a youngster at 64!  My knees are not agreeing with me, though...

justin_o_guy2 wrote on 07/25/22 at 10:09:07:


I do something similar.  I use an empty Seafoam can to carry extra oil.  It pours smooth enough you don't actually need a funnel.  I keep a cloth rag wrapped around the can held in place with an IV tourniquet.

And my knees are only 58 but still don't like hard surfaces.  I've tried a telescoping mirror to see the oil level while sitting on the seat without luck.  I always check mine inside the garage, too, where the floor slopes toward the rear.  And I've got the bigger rear tire.  So I wonder how those two factors either make the oil less reliable or cancel each other out?  

I bought my 2013 S40 new in 2015, but I haven't been riding it a lot, it's only got 4k miles on the clock, the last 1k this year alone as I've been riding it a lot more lately. It doesn't use any oil, but I've noticed the oil looks kind of nasty every time I change it. I did the first oil change at 1,000 miles, replacing whatever factory oil with Suzuki synthetic, then another oil change at 2,500 miles, also using Suzuki synthetic, and today at 4,000 miles - this time I used Liqui Moly synthetic motorcycle oil.

Even with these short intervals I notice the drained oil is dark, and not perfectly uniform consistency. For instance when i drain the oil from my car, even after 5k miles it is perfectly consistent and less dark.

It this caused by the lack of PCV?

https://youtu.be/sAHuBJ6tOUc

My oil has never accumulated water or exhibited sludge, except when I had the transmission failure.  That generated a lot of ferrous particles that accumulated on the magnets in my alternator rotor, and formed a magnetic sludge.  

My oil has never been anything but a uniform consistency when I drain it. That includes observations on a box-stock engine, engine with an open breather system, and my current setup using the Hayden KrankVent.  However, with the KrankVent, the oil won't drain unless I remove the fill plug.  That's because the engine is no longer vented.  The KrankVent only let's air & vapors out, it doesn't let air in.

The way the bike was delivered from Suzuki, it had the equivalent of the old-style automotive breather shown in the video (with the exception that the air would be filtered).  The way the thing comes from the factory, air is continuously exchanging back & forth from the atmosphere outside the crankcase to the atmosphere inside the crankcase.  With a stock airbox and paper filter, I suspect it might start to pull a vacuum in the crankcase because of the low pressure developed in the airbox, but that would probably only occur at very wide throttle openings.

The setup I am currently running uses a check valve to circumvent the air exchange.  It only allows air to escape, and that results in a very small vacuum developed in the crankcase.  It's not really the same as positive crankcase ventilation (PCV).

The first iterations of PCV pulled fresh air into the engine through a filter, and sucked air out of the engine through the PCV valve.  The PCV valve was connected to the intake manifold, so manifold vacuum was always pulling air out of the engine (except at WOT).  I'm not entirely sure but I believe modern FI cars no longer pull fresh air in.  I think the newer systems just pull vapors out and I suspect the newer engines probably develop a decent vacuum in the crankcase.  That might be an interesting test for me to perform on one of my cars.

My oil does get black pretty quick.  OCH, keep in mind that the oil in your car's engine is providing lubrication only for the engine.  It doesn't bathe a wet clutch (with all the associated wear products), or lubricate heavily loaded gears (i.e. transmission).  It also probably doesn't get subjected to the extreme temperatures encountered in an air-cooled engine.

Och,

. I did the first oil change at 1,000 miles, replacing whatever factory oil with Suzuki synthetic, then another oil change at 2,500 miles, also using Suzuki synthetic, and today at 4,000 miles - this time I used Liqui Moly synthetic motorcycle oil.

I'm not understanding why nobody has said anything about this yet. These dinosaurs have a valve train that really appreciates some of the things they don't put in the most scientific new oils and the clutch absolutely detests anything that has Friction Modifiers.