I know intruder riders are probably a dying breed by now and competent mechanics that can work on a 20year old bike are far and in between.

My intruder ran poorly up to a point where it would not start. I had spark and was able to get it started after a while by spraying start-up fluid into front and rear air filters. This pointed to either clogged carburetors or a bad fuel pump. Unable to find the fuel pump pressure spec on the internet (lots of wrong info out there) i hesitantly decided to by a $180 Suzuki OEM pump and measured it. THE FUEL PUMP PRESSURE is 2.2 PSI. BE AWARE when buying a cheap pump on Ebay or Amazon. The one i had did not show pressure at all. Buy a carburetor fuel pressure / vacuum meter and measure the one you ordered and return when not in spec. While on the Ebay subject: I bought a starter relay which did not turn off - from no start to no off! When looking at it, its lower spring was detached and did not push the starter contact to off anymore. Had to pull the battery terminal to dis-engage the starter motor. Also be careful when buying a carb kit on Ebay or Amazon, they aren't to spec either. We get to that later.
After putting the Suzuki fuel pump in, bike still did not start. So, i pulled the carbs (you'll find videos on how to do that) to clean them. BTW, you don't have to be concerned about screwing up the carb sync, because you can detach the sync cable completely without affecting the cable adjustment. Only the main throttle cable position at the front carb has to be marked and put back to that position when assembling the carb.
Now Suzuki is using Mikuni carbs which are unusual by not using a choke but a fuel enrichment path when starting at cold. There are plastic nuts, M12 for the front carb and M14 for the rear carb, enrichment path plungers. Note there is a spring behind the nut - don't loose it! You can find cleaning carb info elsewhere and i focus on the fuel enrichment path here. This is the most likely culprit with cold start problems. With the fuel bowl removed you will find three brass posts sticking out. The one with the smallest diameter is for the fuel enrichment pick-up. It has a tiny opening, 0.3mm or so at the end. To make sure the passage is clear, blow with a carb cleaner 'straw' from the very end of the plunger housing and watch the fluid coming out of the fuel enrichment pick up. Unfortunatly that's not all. The rear carb has a separated section in the bowl where the enrichment tube reaches down into. There is a v shape opening at the bottom of the section. Make sure that is clear too.
That's for the fuel passage. There is also the idle air passage which has a air jet on the air filter side of the carb. Make sure that is clear too. You probably have to remove the air-mix screw. The original carb has a cap in front of the screw. Use a 1mm drill bit and carefully drill through that cap and remove it with a pick. Note the turns it takes to fully screw in the screw and set it to the same position when assembling it. Mine is set at 1-3/4 turns out.
OK, new pump, carb cleaned - bike still did not start, and the wife was ready to call the junk yard to pick it up.
By trying to be thorough i also replaced the fuel metering needle and seat by ordering a carb kit for the intruder 1400 from Amazon.
Two things to watch out for here: 1. the hole in the needle seat (jet) should be at least 1.5mm (use a 1.5mm drill bit to verify), 2. the length of needle. The one ordered was 1.5mm longer than the OEM, which reduces the gas height in the bowl by 3.5-4.5mm. So had to pull the carbs again, adjusted the float height to 8.6-9.6mm for the front and 27.2-28.2mm for the rear carb. I went with the lower limits for running the bike slightly richer.  Finally, the bike started immediately and ran without acceleration delay - success, but it did not come easy. I still blame Suzuki for their out-rages prices on parts, but they aren't the only one. As a sailor i know Volvo does the same.
One question i have for anyone who is reading this. I have the California version of the bike which uses a bunch of evap lines to evap the gas tank, which isn't airtight anyway. By capping the openings and removing the lines and the charcoal canister will the carb settings be upset by this?

Enjoy riding you Intruder (s83). Although slightly over-engineered cramped it's a good bike.

Sailor